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Solo Adventures in Malta & Sicily

Hotels I stayed In

On my solo adventure to Malta and Sicily, I tried a new way of booking hotels – and I like it!! I used Booking.com which made everything so easy. I was very pleased with all my chosen hotels. In fact, I even went and looked at some of the “second choices” I’d considered, and in every case I realised – rather smugly – that I’d picked the right one.

Stop 1: Valletta, Malta – Grand Harbour Hotel

I flew into Malta from London, and treated myself to a taxi from the airport to The Grand Harbour Hotel in Valletta, Why this hotel? It was in my price range, had gorgeous views over the Grand Harbour, and most importantly – the taxi could pull up right at the front door. A lot of hotels in Valletta involve wrestling your suitcase up, or down, flights of steep, uneven stone steps. Romantic when you’re in a painting. Not so much when you’re the one puffing and dragging luggage, its just……complicated.

Once I arrived at the hotel, I was greeted by the lovely staff, checked in, then whisked up to level 6 in the lift – the views did not disappoint, I was mesmerised, I could see across the Grand Harbour to the Three Cities, past the Saluting Battery, and in the other direction, out to sea. They were setting up for Regatta Day, so there was lots of activity out there. The roof top terrace was up one flight of stairs from my room, with even better views than from my room!

Time tear myself away from the views to go out exploring Valletta. Leaving the hotel is not for the faint hearted – you have a choice of steep long uneven steps, or steeper and longer uneven steps to get up to Valletta, or a short downhill through Victoria Gates to harbour. No matter which choice you make, once you get there, there is so much to explore, just don’t forget anything, you don’t want to have to go back to the hotel for it!!

The Grand Harbour Hotel was a fantastic place to call home for my 10 days in Malta, comfortable bed, great shower, there was a desk so I could catch up on some work, the only negative was the marble floor, it was freezing to put your feet down when you get out of bed, there were no slippers so I kept a pair of socks handy, or stepped straight into my sneakers. Breakfast was served in the dining room, both hot and Continental was available, fruit, juices, tea and coffee. All delicious, so it was easy to get fuelled up for the day – and I would usually take another coffee back up to my room to drink while I got ready for the day.

There is a bar downstairs, so after a hard day exploring I would collect a glass of wine in the evening, go up to the roof top terrace at the end of the day and sip my wine while watching over the Grand Harbour.

The hotel staff were very helpful with directions and restaurant recommendations, and organising my taxi at 5am (urrrgggghhh!!) to get me to the ferry when I was leaving Malta to continue my solo adventure in Sicily.

Stop 2: Syracuse, Sicily – Hotel Piccolo Casa Mia

I found out on the ferry from Valletta to Pozzallo in Sicily, if they booked the taxi for you to get from the ferry port up to Pozzallo station, it costs less than half what the rip-off taxi companies in Pozzallo want to charge!! So, I booked with them and sent a message to cancel my expensive booking. It is a tight turn around getting from the ferry to the station, if you miss the train, the next one is not for 6 hours. It is in the interests of the Pozzallo taxi companies to make sure you miss the train, because you are then likely to fork out for them to drive you to Syracuse rather than wait 6 hours for the next train, whereas it is in the interests of the taxi the ferry staff booked to get you to the train on time, so the ferry staff keep booking you. If you wanted to go to Syracuse or Catania, or wherever you are going by taxi, the ferry staff can help you with that too.

After a short relaxing train trip to Syracuse, I headed off in search of my hotel. For my 3 nights in Syracuse I chose to stay at Hotel Piccolo Casa Mia, a small boutique hotel, walking distance from the train station. It would have been nice to stay on Ortigia Island, but it was further to wheel my luggage, and only a short walk from the hotel anyway, which was also handy for exploring in the other direction, up the coast and to the Archaeological Park. After leaving Valletta so early, it was only about 10am when I arrived at Hotel Piccolo Casa Mia and my room wasn’t ready, so I was able to leave my luggage with them and go out to see what happens in Syracuse.

It turns out, quite a lot happens in Syracuse!! Across the bridge to Ortigia, there were markets, a bustling fish market, forts, castles and importantly, nice places to get a coffee and something to eat.

I got back to the hotel in the early afternoon, my room was lovely, again with the scary cold marble floor and no slippers – must remember to take my own slippers, hotels in northern Italy all provide them, but it is clearly not a Sicilian or Maltese thing! I had sun streaming in my windows that looked over the courtyard, it was nice and quiet, and very comfortable, with a big desk and good bathroom.

A delicious Continental breakfast was served in the dining room, and there is a big loungeroom if you wanted to sit and read, or just sit and plan your day. While I was in Syracuse I explored every inch of Ortigia, I walked up to the Archaeological Park and back down the coast, and one day I caught the train back to Noto, a small city we passed through on the way into Syracuse, that was well worth spending time in.

All too quickly it came time to catch my train from Syracuse to Taormina-Giardini.

Stop 3: Beautiful Taormina, Sicily – Hotel Isabella

The train ride north gave me my first glimpse of Mount Etna, puffing away in the distance. From Taormina-Giardini station, I caught the bus up the hill to Taormina. I should have caught a taxi, but I was led to believe the bus goes all the way up the hill and you can get off at the stop near Porta Messina, from there it is just a short flat walk down Corso Umberto to Hotel Isabella. But the bus goes straight to the bus terminal which is 350mtrs down the hill from Porta Messina……I had several stops along the way, pushing my suitcase up the hill, at least the views were good. That hill was pretty hard going even without a suitcase!

Arriving at Porta Messina and walking along Corso Umberto, I thought Taormina was the prettiest place I had ever been to – it was all decked out with flowers everywhere for the Spring Festival. I chose to stay at Hotel Isabella because it is on Corso Umberto which is the main pedestrian street, easy to walk to various sites, lots of lovely restaurants nearby, and lots to see as you amble up and down the street. I booked a room with sea views with a little balcony, and there was also a roof top deck, with amazing views of Mt Etna, down to the sea, out to the Ancient Roman/Greek theatre and further up the hill behind Taormina to Castelmola.

My room was very comfortable for my 5 nights in Taormina, even with the teeny-tiny shower, luckily I’m not very big!! The bed was comfortable, the balcony with the views was amazing, I had a bit of work to catch up on so the desk was perfect. Delicious breakfast was served in the dining room downstairs, the staff were all very helpful and attentive. While I was there I developed a tooth ache, I found a great dentist and later mentioned to the man working in reception that I had been to the dentist, he said he would have helped me find a dentist if I had spoken to him first, and every day he checked on how I was doing to make sure I was recovering. Everyone in Taormina is so helpful and friendly, the hotel staff were always ready with directions, etc. The pharmacist next door to the dentist, contacted the dentist and made my appointment with him as he wasn’t there at the time I was looking for him. The dentist then sent me messages everyday to check I was OK. The young man at the bus terminal who works for the hop-on hop-off bus company was very good at advising where to visit and when was the best time. All the people I met would smile and wave if they saw me in the streets as if we’d known each other for years – that’s customer service!

My only dilemma in Taormina was the cable car from the town down to the sea was closed for maintenance!! I was counting on it – but at least that forced me to walk down to Isola Bella, the views were all worth it, then from down near the beach the bus does go all the way back up the hill to Porta Messina.

We did have a small earthquake, measuring 4.7 one morning at 3.30am, even though my room had a good shake, and my glass of water on the bed side table splashed everywhere, as soon as the shaking stopped (and I cleaned up the water!) there was no sign that anything had happened. Hotel Isabella is built above a Roman Naumachie, that has been surviving earthquakes since the 2nd Century, so all was quite safe.

The hotel reception arranged for a taxi to get me back down to the station when I left to catch the train to Palermo. I would love to go back to Taormina one day and wouldn’t consider staying anywhere other than Hotel Isabella.

Stop 4: Palermo – Hotel Politeama

The train trip from Taormina to Palermo was long, with a bonus few hours of delay near Cefalù, I then caught the bus #101 from Palermo station to Hotel Politeama, prior research told me this was the easiest way to get there. The hotel is next to Teatro Politeama Garibaldi, easy to get to, walking distance from all the sites in Palermo, and easy to get to other places from. It’s big claim to fame is the fabulous views over the theatre from the roof top bar – all looked good on paper!






But… the staff. Let’s just say, warmth was not their strong suit. Except for the concierge, who was so helpful he almost single-handedly saved my stay.

I was fortunate enough to have arrived at a time when all the unhelpful ones were on a break so the Concierge handled the check-in, as I was very hungry after the long train delay, he called up to the roof top bar to let them know I was coming up, as the restaurant was not yet open they could only give me snacks and a drink – that was OK. I put my luggage in my room and headed up to the roof top.

Once I got to the roof top bar the staff treated me like I was an inconvenience, plonked me in a back corner, and when I asked to move to an empty table by the view (booked, but not for an hour), they grudgingly agreed….. They took so long to make the Gin & Tonic I ordered, that I would have still been waiting when the people who had booked arrived (and they weren’t busy!) so I asked to change my order, I would just have the ‘Welcome Drink’ offered on my check-in letter. See the photo of the quarter of a glass of Prosecco they gave me. No, I haven’t even had a sip of it when I took that photo!! That made me feel even more unwelcome…..I finished my drink and left in search of a friendlier restaurant to have dinner, fortunately there are many close by.

The next day when the Concierge asked me about my visit to the roof top, I told him how disgusted I was, he gave me a full glass of Prosecco by way of an apology while he booked an excursion for me and said he would speak to them. That evening he told me that if I go back to the roof top they would give me a complimentary Gin & Tonic, I thanked him, but never went back to the roof top. The damage was done.

Generally the hotel was fine, it was comfortable, the breakfast was excellent, it was easy to get around from there, but I think the general lack of friendliness of the staff has made sure that Palermo is on my list of never to return to cities. Just saying “Good morning”, or “How was your day?” goes a long way. Sometimes all it takes is a smile to make a guest feel welcome.

I was in Palermo for 6 days, but I spent most of them on day trips to other parts of Sicily, like Cefalu, Agrigento, Trapani, Erice and Monreal. I did cover a lot of ground in Palermo too, but it’s not my favourite place in Sicily, and I think the roof top bar had a lot to do with me forming that view.

The best thing about Hotel Politeama is the bus to the airport stops right out the front of the hotel!!

Final Thoughts

Every hotel had its quirks, but overall I was really happy with my choices. From the stunning harbour views in Valletta, to the cosy boutique feel in Syracuse, the flower-filled magic of Taormina, and even the location perks of Palermo – my hotels were part of what made this solo adventure special.

And yes, I paid for all my stays myself – so these reviews are as honest as they come. (I did become a Booking.com affiliate, so if you book using the links on this page, I will earn a small commission, and it won’t cost you anything extra!!)

Packing Tip: Next time, slippers are coming with me.

See my Trip Planning tips.

To read about The Art of Train Travel in Italy The Art of Train Travel in Italy between Venice, Florence, Siena, Pisa, La Spezia and Cinque Terre – all possible on your own, with luggage!

For ideas on places to visit in Florence and Venice, and more to come!!

Book a Tour While in Malta

Itinerary for my Trip Over to Malta & Sicily

Flew from Sydney to London Heathrow via Singapore, with Qantas on QF1, then QF2 to come home.

Stayed at the Royal Overseas League in St James’s.

Flew from London to Malta on British Airways.

Travelled by Virtu ferry from Valletta, Malta to Pozzallo, Sicily .

All travel in Sicily was by train.

Flew back to London from Palermo, Sicily on British Airways.

London at Christmas time goes over the top with decorations ✨️ if it can be decorated it is ☃️🎄 Leadenhall Market🎄 Covent Garden🎄 Liberty of London🎄 Burlington Arcade🎄 The Ritz
It was a lovely sunny London day to walk through Kensington Gardens from South Kensington to Baystwater Rd. Kensington Palace was all locked up for the Christmas break.#kensingtonpalace #kensingtongardenslondon #london #solotravelinlondon #traveltheworldwithme
Strolling through the tranquil Palermo Botanic Gardens took me to this lovely glass house, complete with a statue of the Genius of Palermo with a giant snake biting his chest, then on to ponds full of lily pads. The gardens are just down the hill from the station, and a peaceful escape from the gritty, grubby city centre.#palermo #solotrip #solotravel #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #seeeverythingdoeverything #palermosicily #palermobotanicalgarden #thegeniusofpalermo
I had a wonderful stay @hotel_isabella_taormina on my recent solo adventure through Malta and Sicily.✨️📍click the link in the bio to read my reviews of the hotels I stayed in (not sponsored, just honest reviews)#hotelisabellataormina #taormina #taorminasicily #corsoumbertotaormina #soloadventure #solotravelinsicily #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #siicily
A morning walk through St James's Park on Christmas Day✨️all rugged up and ready for anything 3 degrees throws at me. A beautiful blue sky day in London. Then we eat, drink and be merry....then, maybe, go for another walk.....#stjamesspark #londonatchristmastime #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #blueskiesandsunshine
Went to the Gianni Versace exhibition over at The Arches, near London Bridge ✨️ Not many people there, so a lovely break from the crowds.#gianniversace #thearches #londonbridge #highfashiom #londonlife
Sunrise on my last day in London, after a few very cold, cloudy days, today we are going with a freezing 2 degrees, and sunshine ❄️❄️❄️#sunriseinlondon #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #londonlife #coldmornings❄️ #solotrip
In the London Bridge area on the south side of the Thames, after visiting the Versace exhibition at The Arches, I walked down past The Shipwrights Arms across to Hay's Galleria....used to be Hay's Wharf....now shops, restaurants, Christmas stalls, and a giant Christmas Tree.
Delicious Christmas lunch🎄 @royaloverseaslondon ✨️We started with a few glasses of bubbles, and a variety of finger foods 🥂while making new friends. Then moved on to a celeric and truffle foam amuse bouche (that I forgot to photograph!!). Follwed by smoked salmon, roast turkey and Christmas pudding.I won't need to eat for a week 💖#christmaslunch🎄 #christmastimeinlondon #perfectday❤️ #londonlife #londoneats
The crowds were out in force in London on a gloomy Boxing Day so just a quick visit to Trafalgar Square, then back to Piccadilly area, through Princes Arcade, which drew me in with the tailoring/sewing/fashion decorations and up past Fortnums. #trafalgarsquare #princesarcadepiccadilly #fortnums #londonatchristmastime #londoncalling
The wildly changeable weather in Sydney lately,🌧 last week I needed a snorkel and flippers to get out of my front door!!🥴#raininsydney #wildweather #Sydney #sydneyaustralia #flowersintherain #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Palermo here I come... and what better welcome than Teatro Politeama on my doorstep✨️#solotravel #traveltheworldwithme #neverstopexploring #palermo #palermo

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