Trip Over to Florence
David – Florence’s Favourite Son
Our day out in Florence was inspired by David, Florence’s favourite son – Or is Michelangelo her favourite? I’m not really sure. Michelangelo wasn’t actually from Florence, or Firenze, as it is known in Italy. He was born in 1475 in Caprese, about 100km away. But David, on the other hand, was created in Florence by Michelangelo between 1501 and 1504 – so I’m going to stick with David being the favourite son.
Michelangelo was originally commissioned to create one of a series of statues of prophets to be positioned along the roofline of the east end of Florence Cathedral, (also known as Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, Il Duomo di Firenze or simply the Duomo). But David was placed instead in a public square, outside the Palazzo Vecchio, the seat of civic government in Florence, in the Piazza della Signoria where he was unveiled on September 8, 1504. He was placed with his eyes looking in the direction of Rome, with a warning glare. I actually think his stare, (and stance), is a very cool look of, “Don’t even think about it, I’ve got this…………..”
In 1873 the decision was made to move David inside, out of the weather, to the Galleria dell’Accademia, I did go there to see the original, but wasn’t allowed to take photos there. I have noticed online that many others have, but they were very strict the day I was there. The original is huge, just over 5mt tall. He is heavily guarded these days to protect him from further attacks, like the one in 1991 when someone took to him with a hammer, damaging the toes on his left foot. He does suffer from a few hair line fractures possibly caused by movement in the ground he stands on. He holds most of his weight on his right foot throwing off his centre of gravity. Maybe someone needs to create something for him to stand on that absorbs the natural movement and vibrations in the earth, after all, he is getting on a bit.
A replica was placed where the original stood in Piazza della Signoria, apparently the same size, but doesn’t seem to be, maybe because of the vast space he stands in as opposed to the original with a roof over his head. I have tried to find out who created this replica, but have been unable to. Maybe that was part of the deal, remain anonymous or you don’t get paid. From where I am standing, anyone who can create a replica of David from a chunk of marble is a very talented individual (or team) indeed. In fact, anyone who can pour something into a mould, get it out, stand it up, and it looks like David also has skills beyond anything I’ll ever have.
Having left the comfort of the Savoy Hotel in Piazza della Repubblica, after breakfast, we walked up Via Calimala to the Mercato Nuovo to see Il Porcellino, the bronze pig. Again, a replica of the original marble boar created by Pietro Tacca in the early 1600s. Rubbing the boar’s snout ensures that one day you will return to Florence (and keeps it polished to a high sheen!)
Taking a detour via the Piazza della Signoria, to see (replica) David, and up past the Uffizi Gallery we arrived at the River Arno and walked through the arches under the Vasari Passage and across the Ponte Vecchio. Turning left we walked along the river until we got to the path to climb up toward Piazzale Michelangelo up on the hill on the south side of the river. From there you have amazing views over Florence and beyond to the surrounding hills.
As we climbed up the path way, we stopped a few times to take photos (really, to catch our breath…) It was amazing to be looking over the rooftops of Florence and seeing the Tower at the Palazzo Vecchio rising up into the sky. Further away was the imposing dome and tower of the Duomo, and around to the east, the Torre della Zecca left rather unceremoniously as a traffic island after its past as a major lookout tower on the old city walls protecting the nearby bridge across the Arno. The Tower of Saint Nicholas still stands there proudly, it was also part of the cities defensive walls, originally built in 1324, having survived the 19th century destruction of most of the walls to make way for the urbanisation of Florence, you can climb its 160 steps for a view over the city. Fortunately we were very happy with the views we had from the path leading to the top of the hill.
Along the way there are little make-shift market stalls selling “designer” handbags, and various souveniers, most involving David. On bags, on cushions, as key rings, you name it, you can get it with a little David on it.
There were many people on the path stopping to ask us to sign petitions for various things, mainly to prevent drug problems. How my signature would help this situation is beyond me. Always just decline this, and move on. They are all pick-pockets, once you have both hands busy holding the clip-board and the pen, writing your name, address and email address, they will be checking your bag and pockets. They will tell you that they are in Florence studying art and this is their holiday job, or that they are volunteers to the cause – they are lying to you, don’t let their perfect English and passionate description of what they are doing fool you, all they want is your wallet. Some of the time it must work, or they wouldn’t do it – please don’t let it be you.
The sight of the magnificent neo-classical Loggia dominating the Piazzale Michelangelo made it all worthwhile. It was originally built in the late 1800s, the architect’s dream was that it was to house a collection of Michelangelo’s works, but that didn’t happen – sadly, not all dreams can come true. It is now a fabulous restaurant where we enjoyed lunch at a table in one of the arches, eating beautiful meals, drinking nice Tuscan wine, while looking over the gardens, the activity in the square and out over Florence.
There is a bronze (replica) David in the Piazzale, also by an unnamed artist. We had our lunch while David was surrounded by Ferraris, and he wasn’t the slightest bit interested. It seemed there was some sort of Ferrari promotion going on that day, people were taking them for test drives on the winding roads in the area.
After lunch, and some time taking in the view and looking at the Ferraris, it was time to head back down to Florence. At the start of the path there is a fantastic view of a remaining stretch of the ancient walls that once surrounded Florence. We walked through Porta San Miniato, the gate in the wall as we got closer to the river, it has been there since the 1300s and the locals live around it and walk through on a daily basis more than 600 years later. I have a complete fascination for places that so many people have walked through for hundreds of years, and now I am doing it – for some unknown reason, it really impresses me.
It was pointed out by a tour guide, an art student, when we went to see the real David, that his right hand is out of proportion as compared to the size of his head. She explained that this was part of Michelangelo’s genius, as David was originally commissioned to stand high up on the eastern end of the Duomo. See in the photo below on the right there is a sort of balcony looking area – the plan was that David and some others were going to stand in these areas around that end of the Duomo. The art student explained that Michelangelo did this on purpose, making the hand bigger, so then when you looked up at David so high above you, everything looked in proportion. But, the flaw in this is that if that was the case, it should have been the other way around, the head should have been bigger and the hand smaller. So it’s probably best if we just don’t go there, and I wish she hadn’t mentioned it because all I see now is a big right hand, which I hadn’t thought of as out of proportion before. But Michelangelo is still a genius, it was a huge block of marble to start with, and he turned it into a man – that in itself is an act of genius.
Anyway, Michelangelo’s studio, now a museum, is just behind the Duomo, and once David was finished they very quickly realised they had no way to lift this giant naked man with the rippling six pack, weighing more than 6 tons, up into the position reserved for him. So after much deliberation from a committee that included Leonardo da Vinci, it was decided that David should stand at the entrance to Palazzo Vecchio, in Piazza della Signoria, which he did from 1508 until he was moved inside the Galleria dell’Accademia in 1873.
Itinerary for Trip Over to Florence
Flew from Sydney to Rome via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Largo di Argentina for a month – rented through Sleep in Italy.
Walked all over Rome, bought a one month transport ticket for buses, the metro and some trains.
We caught the fast train from Rome Termini to Florence, and stayed for 3 nights at the Hotel Savoy.
While in Florence we went on a tour with Viator to Siena and San Gimignano.
Arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday with a private transfer with Viator.
Looking over Piazza dei Miracoli at Pisa Duomo, from the upper level of the Baptistery, with the Leaning Tower peaking out behind it. The Cathedral was completed in 1092!! Then it took a further 300 years to complete the bell tower, that became more famous because of it`s lean.
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The railway station at Monterosso al Mare is right at the beach, don`t be fooled by the lack of crowds on the platform, the train just left going north, the crowds are all behind me waiting to catch the train down to the other Cinque Terre villages, or to La Spezia, where I was staying.
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Everything you think there can`t possibly be any more steps, there`s just a few more, then maybe just a few more!! But the view out over the Cinque Terre coast is worth it.
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Sea creatures carved into the rocks in a wall in Vernazza, Cinque Terre. Each of the villages has a quirky art work somewhere!!
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Look at all those steps!! Fortunately, just down the road there is a lift and funicular to get you up to where the castle is. But I suppose if you live half way up, you wouldn`t want to forget the milk!!
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Walking up hundreds of steps on a centuries old spiral staircase was a killer, but so worth it for the view from the top of what was going to be the high alter in Siena Duomo, but building stopped in 1339 when the black death wiped out a lot of the population, and it has just stood there like thus for the last 1000 years, it is really high and only about one metre wide!!
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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The crystal clear waters at Manarola in the Cinque Terre National Park.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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Only this tower was left standing after a WWll bomb hit Villa Pastine in Monterosso al Mare, it was recently restored and is along with the broken statue of Il Gigante in my previous post are a feature of the northern end of the beach.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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Most areas in Italy have a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi somewhere and Monterosso al Mare is no exception, here in Piazza Garibaldi surrounded by cafes and restaurants.
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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The black and white marble bell tower at Siena Duomo stands at 77mtrs, the bells can be heard all over the town, the oldest of the 6 bells was cast in 1149. You can`t climb the bell tower, thankfully (because I would have!!) But you can go up to the balcony around the Cathedral dome next to it, which I did.....the views over Tuscany are spectacular!
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Castello San Giorgio in La Spezia has been protecting this part of Italy since 1262, it now houses a museum and a fabulous view from the top. There is a lift up from the town area, then cross the road and jump on to the funicular to get up to the castle, or if you`re feel fit, there are steps, many, many of them!! La Spezia is just south of Cinque Terre, therefore an excellent base to see this area from.
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The foot bridge to the Marina in La Spezia makes for a lovely walk in the afternoon, there are a few bars and restaurants out there too 🥂!! I am so pleased I chose to stay in La Spezia and visit Cinque Terre, and other towns in the area, from there, it`s a lovely town and my hotel @hotelfirenzelaspezia up near the station, was fantastic.
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The Fallen Angel lying in Piazza dei Miracoli near the Leaning Tower of Pisa. No he didn`t fall and hit his head, he was created this way, representing the fragility of life. Who knew angels were so buff??
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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The bronze sculpture of il Porcellino at Mercato Nuovo in Florence, rubbing the boars snout ensures you will return to Florence - it works!! This was my second visit, I rubbed his snout again......so looks like I`ll be back again 🥰🥂!!
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Riomaggiore is the southern most of the Cinque Terre villages, closest to my base in La Spezia on the Italian coast. On my first day, I caught the ferry from La Spezia to Montarosso so I could see all the villages from the water, before exploring on land.
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The Uffizi Gallery in Florence, this is taken from Piazzale degli Uffizi looking towards the river, the top floor is the Vasari passage that goes from here across Ponte Vecchio to Pitti Palace, so the Medici didn`t have to walk amongst the peasants, or deal with smell from the butchers shops on their way between the office and the Palace.
When I was here in 2013, Vasari Passage had never been open to the public, then I was very excited to hear that had changed, then I knew they closed it again to do some maintenance work and should have been open in time for my recent visit. They must have heard I was coming back and decided to delay the re-opening 🥺 Oh well, maybe next time....
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My first sighting of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!! It does have quite a lean to it!! Built in the 12th century, it leaned immediately, but then leaned more......by 1990 it was leaning 5.5 degrees, it was then stabilised back to just under 4 degrees after under going some remedial work.
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This lampshade made from umbrellas was most appropriate for my first few days in Venice, it just rained....🌧 but I always knew I was heading in the right direction to get back to my hotel when I saw this.
Pic 2 is a really old Venetian Windows with the wall crumbling around it.
Pic 3 is evidence of Venice falling apart right in front of us, the salt damage to the old walls is tragic.
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It was really hard taking photos of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the temptation to line it up straight in the lens is something I struggled with, having it next to a straight building helps!!!
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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This fruit and vegetable shop really stood out in Riomaggiore!! Most of the rest of the village is restaurants or shops selling tourist trash, tea towels and socks all printed with Riomaggiore or Cinque Terre. I feel the whole area has lost it`s charm and authenticity to over tourism.
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The Florence Cathedral, Duomo di Firenze, was built between 1296 and 1436, the last 16 years of that time spent building the dome, that can be seen from all around Florence. (There has been a church on this site since 393!) The building is enormous, then add the Baptistry and the bell tower it really is the centre of Florence.
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#florence #florencetrip #florenceitaly #florencecathedral #firenzeduomo #duomodifirenze #italytravel #italytrip #italianhistory #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #solotravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #florenceduomobelltower #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture
Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #madeinitaly #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #outonthewater #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly
The statue standing in Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence, is rather unfortunately named The Rape of the Sabine Women, or The Abduction of the Sabine Women, both equally bad, depicting the way women were treated in Roman times. Made from marble in the 1500s by Giambologna for Cosimo Medici.
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#rapeofsabinewomen #abductionofsabinewomen #loggiadeilanzi #loggiadeilanziinthepiazzadellasignoria #marblestatue #giambolognasculpture #italianart #artinpublicplaces #florence #florenceitaly #florencetrip #florencewalk #florencetravel #solotravelinitaly #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #solotravel #neverstopexploring #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Views over Florence from the roof top terrace at my hotel, the closest dome is Basilica di San Lorenzo and the far one is Firenze Duomo.
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#florence #florenceitaly #firenzeduomo #florencecathedral #basilicadisanlorenzo #basilicadisanlorenzofirenze #florencerooftops #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #florencetrip #florencetravel #italytrip #italytravel #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstoptravelling
Inside the Baptistery next to Pisa Duomo in Piazza dei Miracoli, it seems black and white marble was all the go 1000 years ago, one of my favourites now!!
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#pisaitaly #pisafieldofmiracles #pisabaptisteryofstjohn #pisatrip #pisabaptistery #battisterodisangiovanni #pulpit #pisafieldofmiracles #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
The Baptistery in Pisa, Battistero di San Giovanni, in the Piazza dei Miracoli along with Pisa Duomo and it`s bell tower, the Leaning Tower. No, the Baptistery is not leaning, I lost the ability to take a straight photo in Pisa🤣!!
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#pisabaptistery #pisabaptisteryofstjohn #battisterodisangiovanni #piazzadeimiracoli #pisa #pisaitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #italiantrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstoptravelling
Inside the 1000 year old Pisa Duomo, they knew how to create beautiful buildings back then, and they last forever!!! Similar black and white marble to that used in the much bigger Siena Duomo some 150 years later.
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#pisaitaly #pisaduomo #pisatrip #pisaduomopiazzadeimiracoli #pisa #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #insidetheduomo #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #italytravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip
Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza ##vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #santamargheritadantiochia #medievalitaly #13thcenturyarchitecture #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #seekandyoushallfind
In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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#palazzopubblico #palazzopubblicodisiena #piazzadelcamposiena #medievalitaliancity #medievalitaly #gothicitaly #italianarchitecture #siena #sienaitaly #italytrip #italianhistory #italytravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #solotrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Taken from the little balcony surrounding the dome of Siena Duomo. A great experience to be able to go up there, then to go outside to see the views as well as look down into the inside of the Cathedral.
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#sienahistory #siena #sienaduomo #sienatrip #sienatravel #sienaitaly #sienaduomobellissimagiornata #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #historygeek #solotrip #italianhistory #italytravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #outsidethedome
La Spezia, taken from the foot bridge out on the Marina. The ferries are waiting to head up the coast to the villages of Cinque Terre, and the palm trees along the water front providing shade for the park. Lovely place 🥂!!
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#laspeziaitaly #laspeziaharbourside #laspezia #italianferries #italianferries #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #solotravel #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #travelinitaly #neverstopexporing #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seeeverythingdoeverything #madeinitaly #boatsboatsboats #myitalianadventure
One of the loveliest medieval Italian cities, exploring centuries of tradition. The people are all so nice, and all helped by the beautiful boutique hotel I stayed in @relaisdegliangeli my beautiful home for not long enough 🥺 I will have to go back one day.
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#siena #sienaitaly #sienahistory #italytravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #medievalitaly
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo with its spiral staircase was built in 1499, sadly it was closed for a private function when I was there.....apparently the view from the top is amazing!! Oh well, maybe next time.....
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#scalacontarinidelbovolo #scalacontarini #palazzocontarinidelbovolo #palazzocontarinidelbovolovenezia #historicvenice #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #veniceitaly #venice #venicetrip #italytravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme
When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine 🤣!!
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#veniceintherain #venice #veniceitaly #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #piazzasanmarco #piazzasanmarcovenice #venezia #torredellorologia #basilicadisanmarco #waterworld #traveltheworldworldwithme #italytrip #italytravel #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveladdict #neverstopexploring
The streets of Venice getting a good wash in the rain, the fist pic is one of the main paths to cut through, I love the fact that people have been walking down here for hundreds of years, and I`m one of them!! The second pic is the Rialto Market building, the market has been trading here since 1097, the current building dates back to the 1500s and still trades every morning, then gets scrubbed down in the afternoon ready for the next day.
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#streetsofvenice #veniceintherain #rialtomarket #rialtomarket_venice #historicvenice #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #venetianarchitecture #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #exploringveniceitaly #italytravel #italytrip #venicetrip #veniceitaly #venicelife #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldwithme
The daily seafood market that has been trading in Rialto, Venice for centuries and still very much in demand supplying all the locals, the restaurants and the Airbnbers. They have everything and more, all beautifully fresh and ready to be turned into something fabulous!!
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#seafoodmarket #rialtomarket #rialtomarket_venice #freshseafoodmarket #veniceitaly #venice #venicelife #venicetrip #veniceintherain #italytravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italyfoodporn #italyiloveyou #traveltheworldwithme #traveltheworldworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything
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