The Spanish Steps in Rome
Trip Over to Rome
The Spanish Steps, or as they are known in Italian – Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti, are more than just Rome’s meeting point, they were built in 1725 to access the Trinità dei Monti Church that sits majestically perched at the top, as it has done since 1585, desperately in need of stairs to access it for nearly 150 years. Known as Rome’s ‘meeting point’, they often get so crowded with people sitting all over them that you would never find who you are meeting. If someone says, “Meet me at the Spanish Steps”, you will need specifics, the top, the bottom, the middle, the left, the right, the centre, near the fountain, outside the Keats-Shelley Memorial House, outside Babington’s Tea Rooms………
Recently the Bulgari Fashion House has put in the funds required to clean up and restore the Spanish Steps to their former glory, all the chips and cracks on the Travertine marble have been repaired, all the chewing gum, coffee and wine stains removed, and a good clean to get off centuries of grime. I am so proud of the fashion industry for funding the restoration of Italy’s monuments. Fendi – The Trevi Fountain, Tod’s – The Colosseum, Diesel – The Rialto Bridge in Venice, and now Bulgari – The Spanish Steps. Catch a glimpse of the fabulous opening show after the Spanish Steps restoration.
Fortunately, I have recently heard that Rome’s Police are starting to move people on if they sit all over the steps, and so they should. Even though the Spanish Steps are considered to be one of Rome’s monuments, they are a throroughfare for those wanting to get from top to bottom and vice versa to go about their business. Rome seems to attract the worst kind of tourist, people who think it is OK to sit all over monuments and statues eating and drinking, it isn’t. Unless there is a specific seat to sit on – don’t sit on it. Others want to access it, see it, admire it and take photos of it. You’ll have to get up early to get photos without so many people in them, but it is worth it.
The fountain in Piazza di Spagna, Fontana della Barcaccia, is found at the foot of the Spanish Steps, commissioned in 1623 to be built as part of a prior Papal project to erect a fountain in every major piazza in Rome. The fountain was completed between 1627 and 1629 by Pietro Bernini possibly along with the help of his son Gian Lorenzo Bernini, as Pietro died on 29th August 1629.
The sculptural fountain is made into the shape of a half-sunken boat with water overflowing its sides into a small basin. The source of the water comes from an aqueduct from 19BC. Bernini built this fountain to be slightly below street level due to the low water pressure from the aqueduct. Fresh drinking water flows from seven points on the fountain. The ramp at the front of the fountain is there so you can walk out at get fresh drinking water from the spouts in the boat. Water is available like this from all over Rome.
According to legend, when the Tiber River flooded in 1598, water carried a small boat into the Piazza di Spagna. When the water receded, the boat was deposited in the centre of the square, and it was this event that inspired Bernini’s creation. The fountain is decorated with the Papal Coat of Arms of the Barberini family as a reminder of Pope Urban VIII’s ancestry.
On one side of the bottom of the steps is Babington’s Tea Rooms, on the other is the house where romantic poet John Keats lived and died. It is now a memorial museum to both John Keats and Percy Shelley. Keats came to live in Rome on the advice of his doctors as he was suffering from tuberculosis, it was thought maybe the warmer weather in Rome would help. But not so, he needed more than the weather to cure him and he died in 1821 at the age of only 25. This fabulous address was bought in 1906 and restored to how it was in Keats day and opened as a museum to both Keats and Shelley. Very interesting to see how simply Keats lived, and see pictures of Rome from the early 1800s.
Babington’s Tea Rooms were opened in 1893, sadly long after Keats died so he never got the opportunity to take tea there, it may have helped. Two young English ladies, Isabel Cargill and Anna Maria Babington, moved to Rome with £100.00 to open Tea Rooms to cater for the growing English population of Rome. They opened business in what was the stables of an 18th century palazzo, having made a success of their first tea room not far from there. After Anna Maria’s death in 1929, her sister, Annie, invested her life savings into the business. WW1 and the great depression had taken their toll, but with this investment, Anna Maria’s daughter, Dorothy, along with Annie and Isabel were able to bring it back to a successful business.
The business was struck another blow in WW2, but with lots of hard work was again brought back to life and today is operated by Isabel’s great-grandchildren. Babington’s is a lovely place to spend some time before continuing to explore Rome.
The high fashion establishments are all in this area. Looking from the Spanish Steps you have a view straight down Via Condotti, great window shopping in this street. On the left corner of Via Condotti fronting on to Piazza di Spagna is Dior, on the right is Prada, with Missoni next door. Further to the right is Chanel and round to the left in Piazza Magnanelli is Valentino. All the way down Via Condotti, at the intersection of Via del Corso is the Head Quarters on Fendi, where I bought my beautiful silk scarf celebrating 75 years of The Bagette, Fendi’s signature handbag.
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Itinerary for Trip Over to Rome
Flew from Sydney to Rome via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Largo di Argentina for a month – rented through Sleep in Italy, now available on Airbnb.
Walked all over Rome, bought a one month transport ticket for buses, the metro and some trains.
We caught the fast train from Rome Termini to Florence, and stayed for 3 nights at the Hotel Savoy.
While in Florence we went on a tour with Viator to Siena and San Gimignano.
Arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday with a private transfer with Viator.
Taking a short break from posting pics from my recent Trip Over to Italy, back here in Sydney, the Royal Botanic Gardens on the edge of Sydney Harbour, held the Fleurs de Villes exhibition at Calyx, this exhibit was just inside the entrance gates near the Sydney Opera House. One of those perfect winter days 🌞!!
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In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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This fruit and vegetable shop really stood out in Riomaggiore!! Most of the rest of the village is restaurants or shops selling tourist trash, tea towels and socks all printed with Riomaggiore or Cinque Terre. I feel the whole area has lost it`s charm and authenticity to over tourism.
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A sculpture of a tree on the beach front in San Terenzo, in the Gulf of Poets, near La Spezia in Italy. It was a lovely place to amble around on a cool, cloudy day in early spring.
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Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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As my ferry from La Spezia to Monterosso rounded the point Chiesa di San Pietro on above Porto Venere, I knew this was a place I needed to visit. This church has been here looking over the sea since 1198. After seeing the way the villages of Cinque Terre have lost their character to tourism, I imagine Porto Venere is what Cinque Terre used to be like - very few people, absolutely beautiful and so much history, a just a short bus ride from La Spezia.
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The Fountain of Dialogue in Piazza Garibaldi in La Spezia, I`m not too sure how I feel about it, it`s different from all angles, some better, some not so nice!! It was designed for people to sit all around it next to the water and talk, I wanted to get a picture with less people......fortunately I walked through the square many times every day.
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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The beach club on the bay between Lerici and San Terenzo, in the Gulf of Poets, Italy, just waiting for the sun to come out.
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La Spezia, taken from the foot bridge out on the Marina. The ferries are waiting to head up the coast to the villages of Cinque Terre, and the palm trees along the water front providing shade for the park. Lovely place 🥂!!
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And even further up the hill in Porto Venere, the old castle walls, the ancient pathways, and more fantastic views out across the bay, and over Chiesa di San Pietro perched high above the sea.
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One of the fountains in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens up towards the NSW Art Gallery. I think someone needs to turn the tap on a bit more, it`s lacking in oomph!!
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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Sea creatures carved into the rocks in a wall in Vernazza, Cinque Terre. Each of the villages has a quirky art work somewhere!!
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After walking up to the top of Lerici Castle, the drizzly rain had stopped, so I decided to walk all the way around the bay to San Terenzo, this place will be packed to the rafters, but in early April the only people around were people doing maintenance to get ready for the season.... and me.....
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Everything you think there can`t possibly be any more steps, there`s just a few more, then maybe just a few more!! But the view out over the Cinque Terre coast is worth it.
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Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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The Chapel of St Catherine Flagellants behind the monument to the people of Corniglia who died in the Facist/anti-Facist uprisings in 1926. Up the stairs at the side of the Chapel there is a platform with a view out over the sea.
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The bell tower, Torre Campanaria, in Manarola in Cinque Terre National Park.
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My walk towards San Terenzo from Lerici continues, past this very rocky section of the bay, towards the next empty beach.....I know this beach would have been a hive of activity the day after I was here, it was much warmer and a beautul sunny day.....but I was off to Pisa that day.
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The crystal clear waters at Manarola in the Cinque Terre National Park.
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Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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A statue of Robert Wagnet in Piazza Doria in La Spezia, Italy. Wagner was inspired to write some of his music after spending some time in this town.
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The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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Manarola, the next village coming into view as my ferry from La Spezia Heads north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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The curtains on this focacceria are made from real pasta, so clever!!! This is one of the little shops on the path in the ancient city of Porto Venere, inside the castle walls.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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This appealed to me......in the Art Gallery of NSW, Sydney. In reality it is an enormous work, but everything I see it a different size, it looks like something else.
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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The French exhibit at Fleurs de Villes at Calyx, in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens. This was my favourite, love a bit of Moulin Rouge!!
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A little port hole view from Lerici Castle over the town of Lerici, a great place to pause while I got my breath back ready for the next lot of steps to climb on my quest to reach the top of the castle lookout tower.
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#lerici #lericicoast #lericiitaly #lericicastle #windowontheworld #viewfromthecastle #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicitaly #lookouttower #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #italianadventure #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #experiencelifethroughtravel #stepsstepsandmoresteps
San Terenzo castle looking over the deserted beach as the boats and chairs get rolled out ready for beach weather, that actually arrived the day after I was there.
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The Fallen Angel lying in Piazza dei Miracoli near the Leaning Tower of Pisa. No he didn`t fall and hit his head, he was created this way, representing the fragility of life. Who knew angels were so buff??
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As any trip to Italy is full of medieval steps to climb to see fabulous things, Lerici is no different!! These are the steps from the bay up to Lerici Castle, or you can look out for this little unmarked tunnel, walk into the tunnel about 20 metres, and there is a lift up to the base of the castle. From there, there are still plenty of steps to climb up to get to the various levels in the castle, all worth it!!
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Sydney` Royal Botanic Gardens starting to come to life at the end of winter. It is still winter here, but we are having hotter weather that we get in peak summer, hopefully this doesn`t mean we are in for a relentlessly hot summer 😳
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Half way around the bay on my walk from Lerici to San Terenzo, looking over one of the beach clubs, still closed before the season starts, to Lerici Castle and the town of Lerici.
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#santerenzo #santerenzobeach #santerenzolerici #santerenzochedelgolfoepiubelfiore
#lerici #lericicoast #lericicastle #Italiancoast #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind #beforetheseason
San Terenzo Castle has been looking over the town and beach since the 12th century, it has seen some stuff in it`s time!! All around the base of the castle is full of kayaks storage and other small boats waiting for a summer out on the bay.
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#santerenzo #santerenzocastle ##santerenzobeach #medievalitaly #italianhistory #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #castles_oftheworld #kayaksandboats #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #historygeek #historicitaly #lookouttower #madeinitaly
Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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#riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorevillage #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #outonthewater #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #travelinitaly #neverstopexporing #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind
Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #stepsstepsandmoresteps #italianadventure
The railway station at Monterosso al Mare is right at the beach, don`t be fooled by the lack of crowds on the platform, the train just left going north, the crowds are all behind me waiting to catch the train down to the other Cinque Terre villages, or to La Spezia, where I was staying.
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#monterossoalmarecinqueterre #monterosso #monterossoalmare #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelbytraininitaly #travelbytrain
The Italian exhibit at Fleures de Villes in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens, not quite sure why it`s Italian other than Italians seem to have claimed lemons as their own.....
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#fleursdevilles #royalbotanicgardens #italianexhibit #sydney #sydneyaustralia #sydneylocal #sydneyinwinter #sydneylife #explorethecityyoulivein #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #experiencelifethroughtravel #traveltheworldworldwithme #sydneyweekend
More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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#solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #traveladdict #laspezia #laspeziaitaly #castellosangiorgio #stairwaytoheaven #manymanystepstoclimb #laspeziacentro #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture #explorelaspezia
#manarola #manarola5terre #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #solotravelinitaly
This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #stepsstepsandmoresteps #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring
Corniglia is the only one of the villages along the Cinque Terre coastline you can get to by road, which must be an enormous help for the people who live there.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #viewfromthetop #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveladdict
Inside the Baptistery next to Pisa Duomo in Piazza dei Miracoli, it seems black and white marble was all the go 1000 years ago, one of my favourites now!!
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#pisaitaly #pisafieldofmiracles #pisabaptisteryofstjohn #pisatrip #pisabaptistery #battisterodisangiovanni #pulpit #pisafieldofmiracles #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
