The Spanish Steps in Rome
Trip Over to Rome
The Spanish Steps, or as they are known in Italian – Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti, are more than just Rome’s meeting point, they were built in 1725 to access the Trinità dei Monti Church that sits majestically perched at the top, as it has done since 1585, desperately in need of stairs to access it for nearly 150 years. Known as Rome’s ‘meeting point’, they often get so crowded with people sitting all over them that you would never find who you are meeting. If someone says, “Meet me at the Spanish Steps”, you will need specifics, the top, the bottom, the middle, the left, the right, the centre, near the fountain, outside the Keats-Shelley Memorial House, outside Babington’s Tea Rooms………
Recently the Bulgari Fashion House has put in the funds required to clean up and restore the Spanish Steps to their former glory, all the chips and cracks on the Travertine marble have been repaired, all the chewing gum, coffee and wine stains removed, and a good clean to get off centuries of grime. I am so proud of the fashion industry for funding the restoration of Italy’s monuments. Fendi – The Trevi Fountain, Tod’s – The Colosseum, Diesel – The Rialto Bridge in Venice, and now Bulgari – The Spanish Steps. Catch a glimpse of the fabulous opening show after the Spanish Steps restoration.
Fortunately, I have recently heard that Rome’s Police are starting to move people on if they sit all over the steps, and so they should. Even though the Spanish Steps are considered to be one of Rome’s monuments, they are a throroughfare for those wanting to get from top to bottom and vice versa to go about their business. Rome seems to attract the worst kind of tourist, people who think it is OK to sit all over monuments and statues eating and drinking, it isn’t. Unless there is a specific seat to sit on – don’t sit on it. Others want to access it, see it, admire it and take photos of it. You’ll have to get up early to get photos without so many people in them, but it is worth it.
The fountain in Piazza di Spagna, Fontana della Barcaccia, is found at the foot of the Spanish Steps, commissioned in 1623 to be built as part of a prior Papal project to erect a fountain in every major piazza in Rome. The fountain was completed between 1627 and 1629 by Pietro Bernini possibly along with the help of his son Gian Lorenzo Bernini, as Pietro died on 29th August 1629.
The sculptural fountain is made into the shape of a half-sunken boat with water overflowing its sides into a small basin. The source of the water comes from an aqueduct from 19BC. Bernini built this fountain to be slightly below street level due to the low water pressure from the aqueduct. Fresh drinking water flows from seven points on the fountain. The ramp at the front of the fountain is there so you can walk out at get fresh drinking water from the spouts in the boat. Water is available like this from all over Rome.
According to legend, when the Tiber River flooded in 1598, water carried a small boat into the Piazza di Spagna. When the water receded, the boat was deposited in the centre of the square, and it was this event that inspired Bernini’s creation. The fountain is decorated with the Papal Coat of Arms of the Barberini family as a reminder of Pope Urban VIII’s ancestry.
On one side of the bottom of the steps is Babington’s Tea Rooms, on the other is the house where romantic poet John Keats lived and died. It is now a memorial museum to both John Keats and Percy Shelley. Keats came to live in Rome on the advice of his doctors as he was suffering from tuberculosis, it was thought maybe the warmer weather in Rome would help. But not so, he needed more than the weather to cure him and he died in 1821 at the age of only 25. This fabulous address was bought in 1906 and restored to how it was in Keats day and opened as a museum to both Keats and Shelley. Very interesting to see how simply Keats lived, and see pictures of Rome from the early 1800s.
Babington’s Tea Rooms were opened in 1893, sadly long after Keats died so he never got the opportunity to take tea there, it may have helped. Two young English ladies, Isabel Cargill and Anna Maria Babington, moved to Rome with £100.00 to open Tea Rooms to cater for the growing English population of Rome. They opened business in what was the stables of an 18th century palazzo, having made a success of their first tea room not far from there. After Anna Maria’s death in 1929, her sister, Annie, invested her life savings into the business. WW1 and the great depression had taken their toll, but with this investment, Anna Maria’s daughter, Dorothy, along with Annie and Isabel were able to bring it back to a successful business.
The business was struck another blow in WW2, but with lots of hard work was again brought back to life and today is operated by Isabel’s great-grandchildren. Babington’s is a lovely place to spend some time before continuing to explore Rome.
The high fashion establishments are all in this area. Looking from the Spanish Steps you have a view straight down Via Condotti, great window shopping in this street. On the left corner of Via Condotti fronting on to Piazza di Spagna is Dior, on the right is Prada, with Missoni next door. Further to the right is Chanel and round to the left in Piazza Magnanelli is Valentino. All the way down Via Condotti, at the intersection of Via del Corso is the Head Quarters on Fendi, where I bought my beautiful silk scarf celebrating 75 years of The Bagette, Fendi’s signature handbag.
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Itinerary for Trip Over to Rome
Flew from Sydney to Rome via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Largo di Argentina for a month – rented through Sleep in Italy, now available on Airbnb.
Walked all over Rome, bought a one month transport ticket for buses, the metro and some trains.
We caught the fast train from Rome Termini to Florence, and stayed for 3 nights at the Hotel Savoy.
While in Florence we went on a tour with Viator to Siena and San Gimignano.
Arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday with a private transfer with Viator.
As the ferry from La Spezia pulled into Vernazza, on the Cinque Terre coast, we were all mesmerised by the efficiency of this helicopter that seemed to be bringing building supplies in from just over this hill, where the closest road is. The guys who unhooked the load were so fast the chopper seemed to not even slow down as it spun around to go back for the next load, then the same at the pick up location, it just swooped in and they were ready to hook the next load on and it flew on, a well rehearsed routine!!
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Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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Riomaggiore is the southern most of the Cinque Terre villages, closest to my base in La Spezia on the Italian coast. On my first day, I caught the ferry from La Spezia to Montarosso so I could see all the villages from the water, before exploring on land.
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The Fallen Angel lying in Piazza dei Miracoli near the Leaning Tower of Pisa. No he didn`t fall and hit his head, he was created this way, representing the fragility of life. Who knew angels were so buff??
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Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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Look at all those steps!! Fortunately, just down the road there is a lift and funicular to get you up to where the castle is. But I suppose if you live half way up, you wouldn`t want to forget the milk!!
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One last quick look at Riomaggiore, behind me about 400 people were pouring off boats to take over Riomaggiore, after this photo I went straight to the station to get out of there. All the shops full of tea towels, socks and touristy junk were ready for them......I wanted out.....
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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Inside the 1000 year old Pisa Duomo, they knew how to create beautiful buildings back then, and they last forever!!! Similar black and white marble to that used in the much bigger Siena Duomo some 150 years later.
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One of the loveliest medieval Italian cities, exploring centuries of tradition. The people are all so nice, and all helped by the beautiful boutique hotel I stayed in @relaisdegliangeli my beautiful home for not long enough 🥺 I will have to go back one day.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The railway station at Monterosso al Mare is right at the beach, don`t be fooled by the lack of crowds on the platform, the train just left going north, the crowds are all behind me waiting to catch the train down to the other Cinque Terre villages, or to La Spezia, where I was staying.
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The very ornate doors to Florence Cathedral, imagine the number of hours it took to carve these, and this is not the only set of doors, there are many, all equally detailed - it`s a lost art, or is just too expensive to have beautiful things these days??
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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This lampshade made from umbrellas was most appropriate for my first few days in Venice, it just rained....🌧 but I always knew I was heading in the right direction to get back to my hotel when I saw this.
Pic 2 is a really old Venetian Windows with the wall crumbling around it.
Pic 3 is evidence of Venice falling apart right in front of us, the salt damage to the old walls is tragic.
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Siena is one of the lovliest medieval Italian cities, this is the town hall, Palazzo Pubblico with it`s 14th century tower, Torre del Mangia sitting on the edge of the main square Piazza del Campo. I recently spent 3 nights in Siena, and really wish I had stayed a bit longer. I`m sure I`ll go back one day to continue exploring this historic Tuscan city.
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Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo with its spiral staircase was built in 1499, sadly it was closed for a private function when I was there.....apparently the view from the top is amazing!! Oh well, maybe next time.....
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Sea creatures carved into the rocks in a wall in Vernazza, Cinque Terre. Each of the villages has a quirky art work somewhere!!
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Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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Corniglia is the only one of the villages along the Cinque Terre coastline you can get to by road, which must be an enormous help for the people who live there.
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Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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The crystal clear waters at Manarola in the Cinque Terre National Park.
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Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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Only this tower was left standing after a WWll bomb hit Villa Pastine in Monterosso al Mare, it was recently restored and is along with the broken statue of Il Gigante in my previous post are a feature of the northern end of the beach.
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From the terrace behind the little church in my previous post, looking north from Corniglia towards Montarosso way off in the distance.
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This fruit and vegetable shop really stood out in Riomaggiore!! Most of the rest of the village is restaurants or shops selling tourist trash, tea towels and socks all printed with Riomaggiore or Cinque Terre. I feel the whole area has lost it`s charm and authenticity to over tourism.
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The Fountain of Dialogue in Piazza Garibaldi in La Spezia, I`m not too sure how I feel about it, it`s different from all angles, some better, some not so nice!! It was designed for people to sit all around it next to the water and talk, I wanted to get a picture with less people......fortunately I walked through the square many times every day.
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#laspeziaitaly #laspeziacentro #laspezia #piazzagaribaldi #piazzagaribaldilaspezia #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #marblesculpture #fountainofdialogue #artinpublicplaces #artinthestreets #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling
Bronze sculpture of Perseus proudly displaying Medusa`s head that he had just lopped off, by Benvenuto Cellini, the sculpture was finished in 1554. It stands in Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria, in the centre of Florence.
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#perseus #perseusfirenze #medusa #perseusandmedusa #bronzesculpture #artinpublicplaces #sculpture_gallery #loggiadeilanzi #loggiadeilanziinthepiazzadellasignoria #florence #florenceitaly #florencetrip #florencetravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
Everything you think there can`t possibly be any more steps, there`s just a few more, then maybe just a few more!! But the view out over the Cinque Terre coast is worth it.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #stepsstepsandmoresteps #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #solotrip #italianadventure #madeinitaly #traveladdict
More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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#solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #traveladdict #laspezia #laspeziaitaly #castellosangiorgio #stairwaytoheaven #manymanystepstoclimb #laspeziacentro #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture #explorelaspezia
A statue of Robert Wagnet in Piazza Doria in La Spezia, Italy. Wagner was inspired to write some of his music after spending some time in this town.
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#laspeziaitaly #laspezia #laspeziaharbourside #laspeziacentro #robertwagner #robertwagnerlaspezia #sculpture #artinpublicplaces #piazzadoria #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #italytrip #madeinitaly #sculpture #traveladdict #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything
After climbing up about 70 to 80 steps on a really narrow stone spiral staircase you are up near the dome of the Siena Duomo, from there you get a whole different view looking down into the Cathedral, and up inside the dome.
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#siena #sienahistory #sienatravel #sienaitaly #sienaduomo #sienaduomobellissimagiornata #sienatrip #sienaitalia #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #insidethedome #upintherafters #viewfromthetop #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #italytravel #italytrip #traveltheworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Ponte Vecchio, crossing River Arno, the top level is the Vasari Passage coming from Uffuzi Gallery. Ponte Vecchio started off as butcher shops, the waste product being thrown into the river, the stench was said to be unbearable. Now mainly jewellery shops, not smelly at all!!!
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#florence #florenceitaly #florencetrip #florencewalk #florencetravel #italytrip #solotravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seekandyoushallfind #pontevecchio #pontevecchiofirenze #riverarno #reflectiononwaterisbeautiful #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict
Siena`s Torre del Mangia can be seen between buildings all over this magnificent medieval city.
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#siena #sienatravel #solotravelinitaly #sienatravel #seekandyoushallfind #sienaitalia #seeeverythingdoeverything #sienaitaly #sienahistory #sienatrip #torredelmangia #medievalitaliancity #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravel #neverstopexporing
In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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#monterossoalmarecinqueterre #monterosso #monterossoalmare #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterre #artinpublicplaces #tunnelinmonterosso #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #italytrip
This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #stepsstepsandmoresteps #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring
