So Bazaar!!!
Trip Over to Istanbul
Built in the 1400s, the worldβs oldest department store sits in the middle of old Istanbul. After walking down the hill from our apartment near Galata Tower, we caught the tram from Karakoy across Galata Bridge, past Topkapi Palace, past the Blue Mosque and around the corner getting off at Beyazit. This stop is right outside the Carsikapi Gate, one of the main entrances to the Grand Bazaar (also known as the Covered Bazaar, or Kapali Carsi).
The atmosphere is electric, there is so much to see, unfortunately most of it geared towards the tourist market, but still interesting to see all the tea glasses, coloured hanging lights, scarves, jewellery, etc, etc, etc……
We were soon at the mercy of the many carpet salesmen, trying to lure us into their shops. Some of the rugs are beautiful, but as soon as you show any interest you are almost bullied into shops and forced to listen to their stories of why their rugs are the best. My eye caught a rug design that really appealed to me in one of the shops, the owner launched into his spiel about the silk, the double knots, the time taken to make the rug and how helpful he would be in getting the rug shipped back to Australia for me. I would have loved to own that rug, but from that point on, the more he talked, the more I felt he was leading me up the garden path. His poor assistant was unrolling and showing us rug after rug, and he would have to re-roll them all afterwards. I was told all about the deal he could do for me if I would accept the delivery of 5 other rugs he would ship to a warehouse in Sydney, and my rug would be in that delivery. Much to his denial, I felt I was going to be left with all the customs clearance and import duties on all the rugs, and may never see my rug again without paying all these charges. In order to get out of there I said I would contact my own freight forwarder and get back to him. We left, both of us knowing we would never see each other again.
There was one guy who followed us all over the Bazaar, every time we went into a shop, he waited outside to see if we were ready to be taken to his shop. I asked him to leave us alone, so he moved a bit further away. We had lunch, and when we came out of the restaurant β he was there waitingβ¦β¦β¦β¦.he followed us all the way back through the Bazaar to near gates, I shouted at him which attracted the attention of the security guards, this made him back off and disappear into the crowd.
After walking miles through the labyrinth that is the Grand Bazaar, I became obsessed with a handbag. This obsession opened up a whole new adventure that we had never expected. I wonβt be naming names or brands here as the fake trade is not something I want to promote. I had been told that the joke with the locals is that man with the best fakes is rarely around, as he is always in and out of the police lock up!! Maybe I hit one of those lucky rare days?
The first shop I went into and asked if they had the bag in question in black, led the lady working there to start shuffling suitcases around her tiny shop until she had exposed a trap door in the floor. She went down through the trap door and started pulling out the bag in question in every colour, except black. I continued on my search, the next shop only had the bag in red. As I came out of that shop a man associated with the first shop called out to me, βYou wonβt find what you are after anywhere and will eventually come back my shop, so save your timeβ. This made me determined to never go back to his shop, no matter what.
In a third shop, after trying to sell me all sorts of other bags, I explained that I was only looking for one type of bag not any other bag. She said she knew a man and ran off. I thought we were now getting somewhere β but no β the man she came back with was the man from the first shop. Disaster!!
Further into the Bazaar I found another handbag shop with the bag I wanted, but it was in black leather with gold coloured fittings, but now I was getting more determined, and fussier. I was now sure I wanted the bag in black patent leather with silver fittings. The lady there tried her best to sell me something else, then realising how determined (or maybe, some might say, stubborn) I was, she asked me to wait because she knew a man (I was dreading the return of the first man). She made a few phone calls, and told me someone was on their way. Rather than give up on me, my friend Christine was also fascinated by where this was all going to end, she was along for the ride too.
Fortunately, a different man appeared saying he would take us to where we could get the bag. We followed him down little corridors, upstairs, through courtyards, back downstairs, down a few more corridors (where were we going? We would never find our way back) until we arrived at an unnamed shop with newspapers stuck all over the windows, we went in and he offered us tea. This was a sign business was about to begin. First he showed me several bags in a different brand, I explained the only bag I was interested in, he disappeared and returned with the correct bag, but again with gold fittings. I tried to like it, but no, I really wanted silver. We drank more tea while he made a phone call.
Eventually a young man came in through a side door, with a sack over his shoulder. In the sack was a box, in the box was the bag β it was perfect β I figured I had found βthe manβ between arrests. We started talking money, he named his price. I was prepared to pay less than half that, so I knocked two thirds off it. He didnβt kick me out, so I knew we were now going to haggle somewhere in between. More tea was poured, this was now serious.
He lowered his price quite a bit, I raised mine a just a little, he made a phone call, and got out a calculator (just tactics to make me think he was worried about the bottom line on his balance sheet). He lowered his price a bit more, I raised mine, just a tad. He asked me how long I was in Istanbul for, and nearly died when I said I was there for a month. He laughed and told me that usually he can get his price because the customer has to leave very soon on a cruise ship or something, he said he canβt do this for a month β I said, βI canβ. He laughed again and made another phone call.
After this call he confirmed that I could pay cash, I could, we haggled a bit more. We got to within the equivalent of five or ten Australian dollars of what I was prepared to pay, he deserved at least that for the entertainment. I called it, the deal was done, cash changed hands the bag was carefully wrapped in tissue, placed into a cotton drawstring bag, then that was placed into an unmarked box, then put into an unmarked shopping bag. He explained that I must never tell anyone who or where he is. He showed us out and told us to go through the door and the end of that corridor and we would be back near the centre of the Grand Bazaar. The way in was clearly to throw us off the trail (it worked!) and I am very, very happy with my trophy. My favourite bagβ¦β¦.ever, not just for the style, mainly for the back story.
Now we were swept up in the crowds heading towards the Spice Market (otherwise known as the Egyptian Market). You know when you are getting close as the exotic spice aromas fill the air. Buy a fresh pomegranate juice on the way in and get ready to taste some of the delicious Turkish Delight samples you will be offered. Unless you are planning on doing some extravagant cooking, the spice stalls are just for interest. You will get to hear the family history and hear all about the combinations of various spices traditionally used in Turkish cuisine. The will offer to package them up into bags that will be accepted through customs when you go home, but as bringing food items into Australia is not allowed, I donβt imagine for a moment that unidentifiable powders and leaves from Turkey would get through! Apart from that, I have never had a use for a product known as βFish Spiceβ, now is not necessarily the time to start β my life void of fish spice will continueβ¦..
Outside the Spice Market is a very popular coffee shop, with queues of locals going to get their super strong ground coffee to take home. It smells fantastic, but thatβs enough for me β even the strong smell is enough to put hairs on your chest. As this is not the look I am after – we move on through the vegetable and fish, on through the kitchen goods, cooking utensils, pots, pans and hardware until we are back near the Galata Bridge, and ready to take my precious handbag home, and have a glass of wine on out roof top terrace overlooking the Galata Bridge to the Bazaar Quarter.
Itinerary for Trip Over to Istanbul
Flew from Sydney to Istanbul via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Galata Tower for a month – rented through Istanbul Place Apartments.
The apartment came with 2 transport cards, that we just needed to top up and we had tickets for all trams, funiculars and the metro.
Istanbul Place Apartments arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday.
Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The black and white marble bell tower at Siena Duomo stands at 77mtrs, the bells can be heard all over the town, the oldest of the 6 bells was cast in 1149. You can`t climb the bell tower, thankfully (because I would have!!) But you can go up to the balcony around the Cathedral dome next to it, which I did.....the views over Tuscany are spectacular!
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#siena #sienaduomo #sienaduomobellissimagiornata #belltower #sienahistory #sienatravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #sienatrip #sienaitalia #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring
My first sighting of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!! It does have quite a lean to it!! Built in the 12th century, it leaned immediately, but then leaned more......by 1990 it was leaning 5.5 degrees, it was then stabilised back to just under 4 degrees after under going some remedial work.
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Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #solotravelinitaly
Siena`s Torre del Mangia as seen from the dome of Siena Duomo, with the beautiful Tuscan countryside rolling out past the Siena city walls.
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The beautiful Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, built between 1600 and 1603, to move prisoners from Palazzo Ducale to the prisons across the canal. The closed bridge is one of the most famous and photographed in Venice. You can still walk across it today when visiting the Doge`s Palace.
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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The Florence Cathedral, Duomo di Firenze, was built between 1296 and 1436, the last 16 years of that time spent building the dome, that can be seen from all around Florence. (There has been a church on this site since 393!) The building is enormous, then add the Baptistry and the bell tower it really is the centre of Florence.
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Walk through this little tunnel under the rock from one rocky beach to another one!! Luckily I`m not the sit on a beach type, very rocky coastline around Vernazza in Cinque Terre, Italy.
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In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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One of the loveliest medieval Italian cities, exploring centuries of tradition. The people are all so nice, and all helped by the beautiful boutique hotel I stayed in @relaisdegliangeli my beautiful home for not long enough π₯Ί I will have to go back one day.
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#siena #sienaitaly #sienahistory #italytravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #medievalitaly
The Chapel of St Catherine Flagellants behind the monument to the people of Corniglia who died in the Facist/anti-Facist uprisings in 1926. Up the stairs at the side of the Chapel there is a platform with a view out over the sea.
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On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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The very detailed front of Siena Duomo, built between 1215 and 1264, in the beautiful medieval Tuscan city of Siena. The Duomo is quite the feature of Siena, both inside and out, you can`t get enough of it. The tour into the upper levels really accentuates how enormous it is. If you`re thinking of a trip over to Italy, Siena is a must.
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The streets of Siena, some are flat, or flattish, they undulate with the terrain they were built on centuries ago, some are steep slopes, some are steep steps, some are a combination three, but all are interesting...
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Inside Siena Duomo, amazing to think it was built over 1000 years ago, and is still standing in original condition. You can pretty much guarantee that there will be nothing built today that will still be standing in 1000 years!!
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The Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Vernazza, with it`s octagonal bell tower has been sitting in the main square in Vernazza since the 13th century. I guess it`s OK to leave your guitar and guitar case out on the rocks by itself before the crowds arrive!!
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia can be seen between buildings all over this magnificent medieval city.
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Ponte Vecchio, crossing River Arno, the top level is the Vasari Passage coming from Uffuzi Gallery. Ponte Vecchio started off as butcher shops, the waste product being thrown into the river, the stench was said to be unbearable. Now mainly jewellery shops, not smelly at all!!!
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When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine π€£!!
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As the ferry from La Spezia pulled into Vernazza, on the Cinque Terre coast, we were all mesmerised by the efficiency of this helicopter that seemed to be bringing building supplies in from just over this hill, where the closest road is. The guys who unhooked the load were so fast the chopper seemed to not even slow down as it spun around to go back for the next load, then the same at the pick up location, it just swooped in and they were ready to hook the next load on and it flew on, a well rehearsed routine!!
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#vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre helicopter #deliveringsupplies #vineyardsofitaly #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italianadventure
It was really hard taking photos of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the temptation to line it up straight in the lens is something I struggled with, having it next to a straight building helps!!!
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#leaningtower #leaningtowerofpisa #torredelpendente #pisaitaly #piazzadelmiracoli #pisaduomo #pisatrip #pisaduomopiazzadeimiracoli #pisa #pisaitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #medievalitaliancity #historicitaly #italytrip #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives
One last quick look at Riomaggiore, behind me about 400 people were pouring off boats to take over Riomaggiore, after this photo I went straight to the station to get out of there. All the shops full of tea towels, socks and touristy junk were ready for them......I wanted out.....
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#riomaggiore #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggioreharbour #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italianadventure #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #boatsboatsboats
Riomaggiore is the southern most of the Cinque Terre villages, closest to my base in La Spezia on the Italian coast. On my first day, I caught the ferry from La Spezia to Montarosso so I could see all the villages from the water, before exploring on land.
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#riomaggiore #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #outonthewater #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #italianadventure
Like most Italian cities, Siena has many churches. This is Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, still going strong after opening it`s doors in 1226!!!
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#siena #sienatrip #sienahistory #sienaitaly #sienatravel #sienaitalia #basilicacaterinianadisandomenico #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #neverstopexporing #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #medievalitaliancity #historicitaly #madeinitaly
The daily seafood market that has been trading in Rialto, Venice for centuries and still very much in demand supplying all the locals, the restaurants and the Airbnbers. They have everything and more, all beautifully fresh and ready to be turned into something fabulous!!
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#seafoodmarket #rialtomarket #rialtomarket_venice #freshseafoodmarket #veniceitaly #venice #venicelife #venicetrip #veniceintherain #italytravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italyfoodporn #italyiloveyou #traveltheworldwithme #traveltheworldworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything
Gondolas on the Grand Canal in Venice near Rialto Bridge, and on one of many smaller canals, giving way to a delivery boat to go under a small bridge. Love the way the Gondoliers kick off the wall to stop the boat hitting the wall and to steer it off in the right direction.
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#venice #grandcanal #goldola #gondolier #outonthecanal #underrialtobridge #canalsinvenice #italy #italytravel #italytrip #veniceitaly #venicecanals #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #waterworld #lifeonthewater #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #venicetrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme
Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #stepsstepsandmoresteps #italianadventure
Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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#solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #traveladdict #laspezia #laspeziaitaly #castellosangiorgio #stairwaytoheaven #manymanystepstoclimb #laspeziacentro #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture #explorelaspezia
The bell tower, Torre Campanaria, in Manarola in Cinque Terre National Park.
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#torrecampanaria #torrecampanariamanarola #manarola #manarola5terre #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling
Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #boatsboatsboats #riomaggioreharbour #visitcinqueterre #italianadventure #italytravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact πβοΈπβοΈπ!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #stepsstepsandmoresteps #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring
Inside the Baptistery next to Pisa Duomo in Piazza dei Miracoli, it seems black and white marble was all the go 1000 years ago, one of my favourites now!!
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#pisaitaly #pisafieldofmiracles #pisabaptisteryofstjohn #pisatrip #pisabaptistery #battisterodisangiovanni #pulpit #pisafieldofmiracles #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
