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Grand Bazaar in Istanbul

So Bazaar!!!

Trip Over to Istanbul

Built in the 1400s, the world’s oldest department store sits in the middle of old Istanbul. After walking down the hill from our apartment near Galata Tower, we caught the tram from Karakoy across Galata Bridge, past Topkapi Palace, past the Blue Mosque and around the corner getting off at Beyazit. This stop is right outside the Carsikapi Gate, one of the main entrances to the Grand Bazaar (also known as the Covered Bazaar, or Kapali Carsi).

The atmosphere is electric, there is so much to see, unfortunately most of it geared towards the tourist market, but still interesting to see all the tea glasses, coloured hanging lights, scarves, jewellery, etc, etc, etc……

We were soon at the mercy of the many carpet salesmen, trying to lure us into their shops. Some of the rugs are beautiful, but as soon as you show any interest you are almost bullied into shops and forced to listen to their stories of why their rugs are the best. My eye caught a rug design that really appealed to me in one of the shops, the owner launched into his spiel about the silk, the double knots, the time taken to make the rug and how helpful he would be in getting the rug shipped back to Australia for me. I would have loved to own that rug, but from that point on, the more he talked, the more I felt he was leading me up the garden path. His poor assistant was unrolling and showing us rug after rug, and he would have to re-roll them all afterwards. I was told all about the deal he could do for me if I would accept the delivery of 5 other rugs he would ship to a warehouse in Sydney, and my rug would be in that delivery. Much to his denial, I felt I was going to be left with all the customs clearance and import duties on all the rugs, and may never see my rug again without paying all these charges. In order to get out of there I said I would contact my own freight forwarder and get back to him. We left, both of us knowing we would never see each other again.

There was one guy who followed us all over the Bazaar, every time we went into a shop, he waited outside to see if we were ready to be taken to his shop. I asked him to leave us alone, so he moved a bit further away. We had lunch, and when we came out of the restaurant – he was there waiting………….he followed us all the way back through the Bazaar to near gates, I shouted at him which attracted the attention of the security guards, this made him back off and disappear into the crowd.




After walking miles through the labyrinth that is the Grand Bazaar, I became obsessed with a handbag. This obsession opened up a whole new adventure that we had never expected. I won’t be naming names or brands here as the fake trade is not something I want to promote. I had been told that the joke with the locals is that man with the best fakes is rarely around, as he is always in and out of the police lock up!! Maybe I hit one of those lucky rare days?

The first shop I went into and asked if they had the bag in question in black, led the lady working there to start shuffling suitcases around her tiny shop until she had exposed a trap door in the floor. She went down through the trap door and started pulling out the bag in question in every colour, except black. I continued on my search, the next shop only had the bag in red. As I came out of that shop a man associated with the first shop called out to me, “You won’t find what you are after anywhere and will eventually come back my shop, so save your time”. This made me determined to never go back to his shop, no matter what.

In a third shop, after trying to sell me all sorts of other bags, I explained that I was only looking for one type of bag not any other bag. She said she knew a man and ran off. I thought we were now getting somewhere – but no – the man she came back with was the man from the first shop. Disaster!!

Further into the Bazaar I found another handbag shop with the bag I wanted, but it was in black leather with gold coloured fittings, but now I was getting more determined, and fussier. I was now sure I wanted the bag in black patent leather with silver fittings. The lady there tried her best to sell me something else, then realising how determined (or maybe, some might say, stubborn) I was, she asked me to wait because she knew a man (I was dreading the return of the first man). She made a few phone calls, and told me someone was on their way. Rather than give up on me, my friend Christine was also fascinated by where this was all going to end, she was along for the ride too.

Fortunately, a different man appeared saying he would take us to where we could get the bag. We followed him down little corridors, upstairs, through courtyards, back downstairs, down a few more corridors (where were we going? We would never find our way back) until we arrived at an unnamed shop with newspapers stuck all over the windows, we went in and he offered us tea. This was a sign business was about to begin. First he showed me several bags in a different brand, I explained the only bag I was interested in, he disappeared and returned with the correct bag, but again with gold fittings. I tried to like it, but no, I really wanted silver. We drank more tea while he made a phone call.

Eventually a young man came in through a side door, with a sack over his shoulder. In the sack was a box, in the box was the bag – it was perfect – I figured I had found ‘the man’ between arrests. We started talking money, he named his price. I was prepared to pay less than half that, so I knocked two thirds off it. He didn’t kick me out, so I knew we were now going to haggle somewhere in between. More tea was poured, this was now serious.

He lowered his price quite a bit, I raised mine a just a little, he made a phone call, and got out a calculator (just tactics to make me think he was worried about the bottom line on his balance sheet). He lowered his price a bit more, I raised mine, just a tad. He asked me how long I was in Istanbul for, and nearly died when I said I was there for a month. He laughed and told me that usually he can get his price because the customer has to leave very soon on a cruise ship or something, he said he can’t do this for a month – I said, “I can”. He laughed again and made another phone call.

After this call he confirmed that I could pay cash, I could, we haggled a bit more. We got to within the equivalent of five or ten Australian dollars of what I was prepared to pay, he deserved at least that for the entertainment. I called it, the deal was done, cash changed hands the bag was carefully wrapped in tissue, placed into a cotton drawstring bag, then that was placed into an unmarked box, then put into an unmarked shopping bag. He explained that I must never tell anyone who or where he is. He showed us out and told us to go through the door and the end of that corridor and we would be back near the centre of the Grand Bazaar. The way in was clearly to throw us off the trail (it worked!) and I am very, very happy with my trophy. My favourite bag…….ever, not just for the style, mainly for the back story.

Now we were swept up in the crowds heading towards the Spice Market (otherwise known as the Egyptian Market). You know when you are getting close as the exotic spice aromas fill the air. Buy a fresh pomegranate juice on the way in and get ready to taste some of the delicious Turkish Delight samples you will be offered. Unless you are planning on doing some extravagant cooking, the spice stalls are just for interest. You will get to hear the family history and hear all about the combinations of various spices traditionally used in Turkish cuisine. The will offer to package them up into bags that will be accepted through customs when you go home, but as bringing food items into Australia is not allowed, I don’t imagine for a moment that unidentifiable powders and leaves from Turkey would get through! Apart from that, I have never had a use for a product known as ‘Fish Spice’, now is not necessarily the time to start – my life void of fish spice will continue…..

Outside the Spice Market is a very popular coffee shop, with queues of locals going to get their super strong ground coffee to take home. It smells fantastic, but that’s enough for me – even the strong smell is enough to put hairs on your chest. As this is not the look I am after – we move on through the vegetable and fish, on through the kitchen goods, cooking utensils, pots, pans and hardware until we are back near the Galata Bridge, and ready to take my precious handbag home, and have a glass of wine on out roof top terrace overlooking the Galata Bridge to the Bazaar Quarter.

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Itinerary for Trip Over to Istanbul

Flew from Sydney to Istanbul via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.

Stayed in an apartment near Galata Tower for a month – rented through Istanbul Place Apartments.

The apartment came with 2 transport cards, that we just needed to top up and we had tickets for all trams, funiculars and the metro.

Istanbul Place Apartments arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday.

More sculptures in the streets, and I found another one of the minitures that are dotted all over the city. It's hard to tell what it is, but perched on the wall near the castle, the little guy in the last photo is looking through his telecope at the city below!!#streetsculptures #budapest #artinthe streets #solotravel
On a chilly Budapest morning, but the blue sky was a nice touch ✨️. I was planning to visit the Hungarian Parliament Building today... but Saturday crowds got the best of me! The exterior of this building is stunning, can't wait to explore the inside. #solotravel #hungarianparliamentbuilding #budapest #budapestarchitecture
As usual, when it cones to museums, I usually find the building more interesting than the exhibits!! Vienna Natural History Museum was no exception!!#viennanaturalhistorymuseum #vienna #solotrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Delicious Christmas lunch🎄 @royaloverseaslondon ✨️We started with a few glasses of bubbles, and a variety of finger foods 🥂while making new friends. Then moved on to a celeric and truffle foam amuse bouche (that I forgot to photograph!!). Follwed by smoked salmon, roast turkey and Christmas pudding.I won't need to eat for a week 💖#christmaslunch🎄 #christmastimeinlondon #perfectday❤️ #londonlife #londoneats
As promised, a beautiful sunny Easter Sunday in Vienna ☀️☀️☀️ After being in Palermo last Easter, where it was underwhelming, Vienna really knows how to take Easter to the extreme!!!#easterinvienna #eastermarkets #soloadventure #vienna
Walking from Bratislava train station to the town centre takes 15 minutes, passing through a park and by the parliament buildings before reaching the historic cobblestone streets.This is where the touristification of the town kicks in, every shop is a restaurant or souvenier shop.Even the castle is a remake of what they think tourists want to see....we actually want to see the original castle!!#bratislava #streetsofbratislava #solotravel #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Just blew the days food budget on Sacher Torte and Coffee at the Sacher Hotel because......why not??? Priorities, priorities!!#sachertorte #sacherhotel #solotrip #traveltheworldwithme
The largest synagogue in Europe, built in the 1850s, has been witness to unmentionable horrors during WWII including being bombed. It borders the ghetto where the Jews were left to die. In the garden cemetery there are tens of thousands of nameless bodies and a few that could be identified.There us a very powerful museum housed here too.#dohanystreetsynagogue #budapestarchitecture #budapest #soloadventure
Went to the stangest market in Vienna at Rathausplatz. Every one of the stalls sold wine, a few sold food, there were people everywhere in national dress, some holding, but no one playing, musical instruments......and Verstappen's F1 car!!???#traveltheworldwithme #eastermarkets #vienna #viennaeaster
Arriving in Vienna, I found my hotel at set off exploring the neighbourhood, the architecture is all gobsmacking, but hard to get far enough away from to photograph!! #vienna #traveltheworldwithme #neverstopexploring #solotravel
It's a museum kind of day in Vienna, 2 to 5 degrees, we've had a bit of snow, a bit of sleet, a bit of rain and a lot of cold ❄️❄️❄️The Furniture Museum is a collection of furnture and other items from the Imperial Palaces, including a display of the toilets from the day.The museum holds huge stores of furniture that they lend out for movies, plays and other events needing furnishings from that era.#viennafurnituremuseum #coldday❄️ #solotravel #traveltheworldwithme
The best part of the day trip from Vienna to Bratislava was the boat trip back to Vienna on the Danube!! The hydofoiling catamaran was fast, about 90 minutes, the crew were great. It was freezing cold and windy outside, but I couldn't help myself, I just had to keep going out to take photos, then running back in to sip my wine 🥂!!!Great for solo travelers, I met so many other travellers onboard.#cruisingonthedanube #twinliner #solotravel #traveltheworldwithme
Chilly morning in Vienna today, but apparently its going to warm up big time tomorrow! First stop Naschmarkt, then strolling past Karlskirche on my way to Schloss Belvedere.......#naschmarkt #karlskirche #solotravel #traveltheworldwithme
Explored the stunning Belvedere Palace in Vienna, a former imperial residence that's truly breathtaking. The gardens were gorgeous, especially with the ponds and fountains coming to life now that winter's loosening its grip, slightly....!!#belvedere #schlossbelvedere #vienna #solotrip #traveltheworldwithme
Leaving Budapest from Keleti station, I found my ticket gave me access to the Business Lounge waiting room!!Next stop on my solo adventure - Vienna🥂!!#solotravel #budapest #keletistation #travelbytrain #traveltheworldwithme
Cesky Krumlov, a quaint medieval town in the south of the Czech Republic, a simple day trip by train from Prague....then lots and lots of walking on cobble stone paths!!#ceskykrumlov #daytripfromprague #solotrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
On my solo adventure in Palermo, Quattro Canti became a familiar spot I visited almost daily ✨️ This iconic intersection of Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the center of the city's historic quarters - Kalsa, Seralcadi, Albergaria, and Castellammare all meet here. In the evenings, it's the perfect spot to soak up the atmosphere and plan a night out at one of the many restaurants on Via Maqueda.#solotravelinsicily #palermo #traveltheworldwithme #solotrip #quattrocantipalermo
Exploring Prague with lots of walking and lots of tram rides! Walking across Charles Bridge, up to the castle, through Lesser Town, into New Town, and historic Old Town.#prague #praguelife #solotravel #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seeeverythingdoeverything
Memorial to the Jews who were rounded up during WWII, they were lined up on the edge of the Danube, forced to remove their shoes, then they were shot in the back and their bodies fell into the river.......#shoesonthedanube #solotravel #busapest #traveltheworldwithme
Everywhere you look in Budapest the buildings are amazing ✨️ so ornate, full of character, luckily the city is very walkable!!#budapestarchitecture #budapest #solotravel #walkingthestreets
The streets of Valletta, Malta. Endless hours of exploring this amazing place. A wonderful place for solo travellers, easy to get around and very safe. Something for everyone, especially for history buffs!!#solotrip #traveltheworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #solotravelinmalta
Yesterday evenings stroll to walk off my enormous Christmas lunch ✨️ past Fortnum & Mason, up Bond St, past the Royal Arcade, then past all the fashion shops dressed up to the nines. Chanel was my favourite 💖 Then Oxford St and back down Regent St to Piccadilly. Londin really knows how to do Christmas lights 🥂✨️💖#londonatchristmastime #christmaslights #streetsoflondon #bondstreetlondon #regentstreetlondon
Budapest Central Market Hall built in the late 1800s, extensively damaged in WWll, left in ruins until the late 1900s when it was returned to it's former glory.....only to now be mainly selling tourist trash.#budapestcentralmarket #budapest #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel
Decided to escape the heat in Sydney🔥 for the cold, and a cozy London Christmas🎄☃️ ❄️❄️❄️ ✨️And London has delivered with a lovely 4 degree (and falling ❄️❄️❄️) evening to start things off.Merry Christmas to everyone 🎄☃️❄️🎄☃️❄️🥂!!#solotravel #traveltheworldwithme #merrychristmas #londonforchristmas #christmaslights
St Matthias Church in the Castle District near Fisherman's Bastion. Climb the steep stone spiral staircase for a stunning view into the main church and explore the artifacts on display. This historic church dates back to the 11th century.#solotrip #stmatthiaschurch #budapestcastledistrict
After catching the tram across the river, I strolled through Letna Park, there are stunning views of Prague's Vltava river, the bridges and the castle, not to mention all the flowers in the park.#flowerseverywhere #viewsfordays #praguelife #solotrip #walkinthepark
.....further to my previous post. I walked past Hochstrahlbrunne, a fountain built in 1873 to celebrate the opening of Vienna's high pressure water system. Then once I arrived at Schloss Belvedere, I found that this was not the place to be at Easter. There was one long queue to buy a ticket to stand in one of 3 other long queues to get in!!! Even one of the staff on crowd control said he had never seen it like this - I'll go back after the Easter weekend crowds have left.#vienna #viennaeaster #soloteavel #changeofplans
Czech artist, David Cerney, famous for his politically opinionated art works.✨️Here showing King Wencelas riding an upside down dead horse into battle. Hanging in the Lucerna Palace, Prague.✨️Then 2 men (politicians??) pissing on the Czech Republic!! This one is outside the Kafka Museum across the Charles Bridge.#davidčerney #politicalart #prague #solotrip
At the top of Wencelas Square stands the National Museum in Prague, an impressive building with breathtaking views from the Cupola.#praguenationalmuseum #solotravel #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
Had a quick run around Prague after a 4 hour train trip from Vienna. I was last in Prague 9 years ago, all seems familiar except Wencelas Square....apart from the statue of Good King Wencelas on his horse, the rest of the square that used to be an elegant collection of historic buildings, hotels, cafes, etc......has now turned into Oxford Street, London...Primark, C&A, Half Price, the list goes on......who thought that was a good idea????#prague #solotravel #traveltheworldwithme #charlesbridgeprague
Had lunch in one of London's oldest pubs yesterday, on Fleet St, not far from St Paul's. Re-built in 1667 after the original Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub went up in flames in the great fire of London the previous year🔥I've had better fish and chips in older London pubs - The Prospect of Whitby and The Mayflower - but still very nice to sit by the fire, then explore the rabbit warren of areas in this pub, knowing people have been drinking here for nearly 400 years.#yeoldecheshirecheese #londonpublunch #historiclondon #solotravelinlondon #londonlife
Caught the train from Vienna to Bratislava for a day trip. Walking up the hill to visit the castle is not for the faint hearted!! And the walk back down 🥴 brutal on the dodgy knee!!! But I made it 😃!!!#bratislava #daytripfromvienna #daytripfromviennatobratislava #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel
A crowd gathers every hour to watch the Astronomical Clock in Prague put on a show 😂 Then some people clap and cheer, and some people laugh in an 'is that it' kind of way.#prague #astronomicalclockprague🏰 #solotravel #traveltheworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmyeyes

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