Luxury on Lake Como – Villa d’Este
Trip Over to Lake Como
During our 3 weeks staying in Como the weather was generally perfect – cool, crisp, sunny spring days, but even on the couple of rainy days it was still perfect and didn’t stop us from getting out and about. The rain was never the umbrella type while we were outside – just the hat and coat variety.
It had been suggested to us that it is not possible to walk around the gardens at Villa d’Este unless we were staying there, that set the day’s challenge for us……. There were low, but non-threatening clouds over Como as the ferry pulled away from the wharf heading for Cernobbio (Pronounced:- Churn-ob-yo) just 2 stops away. The ferry passes another monument to Alessandro Volta, the local lad who invented the battery a few hundred years ago, unveiled in August 2015, this steel sculpture called Life Electric:-
“Inspired by the electric tension between two poles of a battery, the great gift from Volta to the humanity” – Daniel Libeskind from the Life Electric Project.
The sculpture takes on a life of its own in the variety of lighting conditions over the lake, sometimes almost blending into the lake, other times in stark contrast. Some local residents had signed a petition to stop this sculpture being placed in the lake, but now it is there with no sign of any animosity towards it, and it provides a good vantage point to walk out to with seating under the art work, giving a different view of Como and the surrounding area.
Villa Erba can be seen from the ferry as it approaches Cernobbio wharf, one of the many Villas in Cernobbia, groups can book tours here. Most of the villas are either private, or can be booked for events. But our mission was to visit Villa D’Este with its opulent gardens and hotel.
Within a few minutes our ferry had arrived at Cernobbio Wharf and as the ferry pulled up the last of the morning market was being packed away, suddenly we were the only people left on the streets. The drizzly, misty rain and cold must have kept everyone inside for an early lunch made from the produce they had just bought from the market. Undaunted, we continued on towards our challenge………..
The gardens in the villas were all very impressive, and even without land for gardening, hanging gardens add a creative touch to a house just up the road from the Cernobbio ferry wharf.
Up at Via Regina, the main road through Cernobbio around the west side of Lake Como, a side street, Via Monte Grappa, heads through the arch way before winding its way up into the hills. I love the way the Italians don’t knock down their history to make roads, they work with it. Parking is never a problem for these tiny Italian cars, there is always room to park your Fiat or Smart car no matter how small the space. If the car fits, park it!
After turning right at Via Regina and wandering up the road looking at various restaurants, reading menus (all sounding delicious) and trying to decide which one to have lunch in, and doing a bit of window shopping as the shops were all closed for the very civilised Italian long lunch break, we reached the next bend in the road and there were the gates to Villa d’Este. The plan to have lunch somewhere before going to explore the gardens went out the window as we hadn’t realised how close it was.
As we went striding purposefully in through the entrance gates to Villa d’Este the man in the gate office came out see what we wanted, quick as a flash Christine said, “We’re having lunch at the Veranda.” (I decided the terribly elegant couple in the photo of the main gates must be staying there as they weren’t stopped). He welcomed us to Villa D’Este and wished us “Buon appetito”. That was the lunch decision made………..we were in, mission accomplished!!
Prior to 1873 Villa d’Este was a private residence with a very interesting history involving nuns, a ballerina, a Russian Czarina and British royalty, although not all at the same time. Click here to read the history of the Villa.
Following the path lined with beautifully manicured flower beds, not a petal out of place, passing Villa Cima, a lakeside private, almost Tudor looking, villa on the estate built in 1814 by the Princess of Wales to accommodate Count and Countess Pino, the former owners of the estate, after she had convinced them to sell the estate to her (it was the least she could do). It is now one of the villas hotel guests can book to stay in.
Hundreds of immaculate hydrangeas line the interior of the restaurant, and yes, they are real, I checked!!
In summer the glass windows surrounding the Veranda can be lowered down into the ground so you really are sitting out on the veranda, and more tables spill out on to the terrace closer to the lakes edge.
Lunch was exquisite, we shared many dishes so we could taste as much as possible and were waited on hand and foot as there were almost as many staff in the Veranda as there were guests. I suspect though, even if every table was full, we would still be waited on impeccably. There was someone to take our coats, a sommelier to choose our wine, then the waiter recommended we share a Salmon and Strawberry entree, we then shared Duck Cannelloni and Ameriticiana Tortoli, all served up by the waiter at the table so we didn’t have chop and transfer half making a huge mess ourselves. Then the maitre d’ flambed our Crepe Suzette at the table – this was followed by the smoothest espresso coffee I have ever had – with a hint of chocolate.
Having eaten more than enough food to give us the energy to explore the gardens, and fortunately the rain had stopped, but it was still overcast, we set off into the gardens. There are a number of restaurants and bars at Villa D’Este, we walked passed the Terrace Bar that I’m sure in summer is full of sun kissed guests enjoying an Aperol Spritz overlooking the swimming pool that floats in the lake. Next to the Veranda Restaurant you can look up through the marble gardens, up the long path that leads to the statue of Hercules hurling poor Lica into the waters below. From here you can walk over to the back of the Villa d’Este gardens to the remains of Donna Vittoria’s towers and fortifications from the early 1800s, a bygone era in the life of the estate.
The Queen’s Pavilion was added to the estate in the late 1800s with steps going down to the lake and the underpass to bring boats in if the water gets too choppy for passengers to safely disembark………After bringing the boat into the protected water under the Queen’s Pavilion passengers could walk up the steps to the estate and the boat could be kept in one of the boat parking bays underneath.
In summer Cernobbio becomes a vibrant lakeside village, with many bars and restaurants open, but not on the grey day in early spring when we visited. We were not disappointed though, far from it, and we completed the challenge – we explored the gardens at Villa d’Este without staying in the hotel. I’m not sure if it was cheating that we were forced to have lunch there to get in through the gates, but if that’s cheating, I’m all for it…………
Book a tour on your Trip Over to Lake Como
Itinerary for Trip Over to Italy – Milan, Como and Venice
Qantas flight (Emirates code share) to Milan (Malpensa) from Sydney via Dubai
Stayed in Milan, Airbnb, for a week before going to Como
Picked up in Milan by Como Limousines and driven to Como
Stayed in Como, Airbnb, for 3 weeks
Picked up in Como by Como Limousines and driven to Venice
In Venice, water taxi to Al Ponte Antico Hotel for 3 nights and water taxi back
Picked up in Venice by Como Limousines and driven back to Como
Picked up in Como by Como Limousines and driven back to Milan (Malpensa) Airport
Qantas flight (Emirates code share) to Sydney via Dubai
Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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The Florence Cathedral, Duomo di Firenze, was built between 1296 and 1436, the last 16 years of that time spent building the dome, that can be seen from all around Florence. (There has been a church on this site since 393!) The building is enormous, then add the Baptistry and the bell tower it really is the centre of Florence.
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The pulpit in Siena Duomo, and the stairs leading up to it, I can`t get over the fact that people have been walking in here for over 1000 years, and I`m one of them🌞
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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The daily seafood market that has been trading in Rialto, Venice for centuries and still very much in demand supplying all the locals, the restaurants and the Airbnbers. They have everything and more, all beautifully fresh and ready to be turned into something fabulous!!
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Corniglia is the only one of the villages along the Cinque Terre coastline you can get to by road, which must be an enormous help for the people who live there.
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The beautiful Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, built between 1600 and 1603, to move prisoners from Palazzo Ducale to the prisons across the canal. The closed bridge is one of the most famous and photographed in Venice. You can still walk across it today when visiting the Doge`s Palace.
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia can be seen between buildings all over this magnificent medieval city.
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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The bronze sculpture of il Porcellino at Mercato Nuovo in Florence, rubbing the boars snout ensures you will return to Florence - it works!! This was my second visit, I rubbed his snout again......so looks like I`ll be back again 🥰🥂!!
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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Looking over Piazza dei Miracoli at Pisa Duomo, from the upper level of the Baptistery, with the Leaning Tower peaking out behind it. The Cathedral was completed in 1092!! Then it took a further 300 years to complete the bell tower, that became more famous because of it`s lean.
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Look at all those steps!! Fortunately, just down the road there is a lift and funicular to get you up to where the castle is. But I suppose if you live half way up, you wouldn`t want to forget the milk!!
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My first sighting of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!! It does have quite a lean to it!! Built in the 12th century, it leaned immediately, but then leaned more......by 1990 it was leaning 5.5 degrees, it was then stabilised back to just under 4 degrees after under going some remedial work.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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This lampshade made from umbrellas was most appropriate for my first few days in Venice, it just rained....🌧 but I always knew I was heading in the right direction to get back to my hotel when I saw this.
Pic 2 is a really old Venetian Windows with the wall crumbling around it.
Pic 3 is evidence of Venice falling apart right in front of us, the salt damage to the old walls is tragic.
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Castello San Giorgio in La Spezia has been protecting this part of Italy since 1262, it now houses a museum and a fabulous view from the top. There is a lift up from the town area, then cross the road and jump on to the funicular to get up to the castle, or if you`re feel fit, there are steps, many, many of them!! La Spezia is just south of Cinque Terre, therefore an excellent base to see this area from.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #solotravelinitaly
When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine 🤣!!
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Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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Cicchetti became my favourite thing in Venice!! Late afternoon/early evening, the Venetian answer to Aperitivo, with a glass of wine or a Limoncello Spritz, yum. The best ones were found away from the tourist traps, where the locals go.
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The railway station at Monterosso al Mare is right at the beach, don`t be fooled by the lack of crowds on the platform, the train just left going north, the crowds are all behind me waiting to catch the train down to the other Cinque Terre villages, or to La Spezia, where I was staying.
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In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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Inside Siena Duomo, the black and white marble soaring up to the ceiling, I can`t imagine how they built this way back in the 1200s. You can go up to the upper level and look down into the Cathedral from the little windows in the top right of my photo.
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Ponte Vecchio, crossing River Arno, the top level is the Vasari Passage coming from Uffuzi Gallery. Ponte Vecchio started off as butcher shops, the waste product being thrown into the river, the stench was said to be unbearable. Now mainly jewellery shops, not smelly at all!!!
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Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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From the terrace behind the little church in my previous post, looking north from Corniglia towards Montarosso way off in the distance.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #viewfromthetop #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #boatsinthestreet #touristtown #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly
The foot bridge to the Marina in La Spezia makes for a lovely walk in the afternoon, there are a few bars and restaurants out there too 🥂!! I am so pleased I chose to stay in La Spezia and visit Cinque Terre, and other towns in the area, from there, it`s a lovely town and my hotel @hotelfirenzelaspezia up near the station, was fantastic.
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#laspeziaitaly #pontethaondirevel #laspeziaharbourside #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #laspezia #reflectiononwaterisbeautiful #yachts #outonthewater #beautifullaspezia #italytravel #madeinitaly
The black and white marble bell tower at Siena Duomo stands at 77mtrs, the bells can be heard all over the town, the oldest of the 6 bells was cast in 1149. You can`t climb the bell tower, thankfully (because I would have!!) But you can go up to the balcony around the Cathedral dome next to it, which I did.....the views over Tuscany are spectacular!
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#siena #sienaduomo #sienaduomobellissimagiornata #belltower #sienahistory #sienatravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #sienatrip #sienaitalia #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring
The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiore #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggioretunnel #mosaicart #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #italytravel #madeinitaly
After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiore #riomaggiorecinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravelingisfun #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #mosaicart #mosaicartwork #artinpublicplaces
On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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#laspeziaitaly #laspeziaharbourside #laspezia #ferries #laspeziaboat #sailinglife #laspeziamarina #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #solotrip #italianferries #neverstoptravelling #bluewaterandsunshine
The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #cinqueterre #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #belltower
The streets of Venice getting a good wash in the rain, the fist pic is one of the main paths to cut through, I love the fact that people have been walking down here for hundreds of years, and I`m one of them!! The second pic is the Rialto Market building, the market has been trading here since 1097, the current building dates back to the 1500s and still trades every morning, then gets scrubbed down in the afternoon ready for the next day.
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#streetsofvenice #veniceintherain #rialtomarket #rialtomarket_venice #historicvenice #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #venetianarchitecture #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #exploringveniceitaly #italytravel #italytrip #venicetrip #veniceitaly #venicelife #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldwithme
A statue of Robert Wagnet in Piazza Doria in La Spezia, Italy. Wagner was inspired to write some of his music after spending some time in this town.
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#laspeziaitaly #laspezia #laspeziaharbourside #laspeziacentro #robertwagner #robertwagnerlaspezia #sculpture #artinpublicplaces #piazzadoria #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #italytrip #madeinitaly #sculpture #traveladdict #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything
Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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#riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorevillage #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #outonthewater #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #travelinitaly #neverstopexporing #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind
There she is....quite amazing really, just leaning there for over 1000 years, next to Pisa Duomo. The tower is actually the bell tower for the Cathedral. I love the way these beautiful buildings are surrounded by lawns that you are not allowed to walk on. This keeps everyone at a distance so everyone can see, not just the people leaning on the monument.
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#leaningtowerofpisa #leaningtower #fieldofmiracles #pisa #pisaitaly #pisaduomo #pisaduomopiazzadeimiracoli #piazzadelmiracoli #pisatrip #italytrip #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory
Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #madeinitaly #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #outonthewater #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly
Siena`s Torre del Mangia as seen from the dome of Siena Duomo, with the beautiful Tuscan countryside rolling out past the Siena city walls.
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#siena #sienatravel #sienaitaly #sienaduomo #sienatrip #sienaitalia #torredelmangia #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #medievalitaliancity #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #madeinitaly #viewfromthedome
