The Arty Side of Town – Dorsoduro
Trip Over to Venice
Piazza San Marco is often crowded in the morning, so that is the time to explore other areas of Venice. The Dorsoduro area is the creative side of town, full of shops, galleries, restaurants, bars, museums, many smaller canals and space – some of the palazzos even have gardens!
With the Basilica San Marco behind you, walk to the far end of Piazza San Marco, follow the lane out of the square to the left of the Correr Museum. Stroll past some of the high fashion shops, Chanel, Prada, Hermes and Dior, past beautiful old churches like Chiesa San Moise. Make sure you venture up some of the side lanes as they are full of surprises around every corner, photo opportunities and bars to have a coffee to refresh and keep you going. Occasionally look up to see that you are following signs that say “All’ Academia”, or as you get lost exploring, keep returning to the last sign you saw to get your bearings again. Through the Campo San Moise you will cross a little bridge – watch the skilful gondoliers weaving past each other on the narrow canal, with the occasional outstretched foot to push on the wall to manoeuvre quickly around corners.
Continue following the “Academia” signs, though lanes and over tiny bridges, eventually you will turn left into Campo Santo Stefano, walk past the gardens of the Instituto Vento Scienze Lettre ad Arti (The Institute of Wind, Science, Literature and the Arts), with a giant white spaceman floating through the gardens with a plant and a chair! Then you will be at the Ponte dell’ Accademia, the high arched wooden bridge crossing the Grand Canal to Dorsoduro.
After crossing the bridge you are spoilt for choice of museums and galleries to look at, or just wander around the lanes and canals. On the advice of the concierge at our hotel, we turned right over the bridge and went in search of Ca’ Rezzonico, a magnificent 18th century palazzo, now a museum, full of art and luscious furnishings, and views of all the surrounding canals and over the roof tops.
Continuing to explore this side of the Grand Canal, we had lunch in a little home style restaurant that we found on the edge of a canal as we worked our way back towards the Gallerie dell’ Accademia and further on past to the Peggy Guggenheim Gallery which is surrounded by many smaller galleries, where we came across The Beatles crossing Abbey Rd, classic symbols of Italy in the form of Andy Warholesc coffee pots and Fiat 500s, enormous plush roses on chairs and the most amazing collection of wooden sculptures by Loris Marazzi. Then on through more winding lanes over bridges, past glistening canal views and to on the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute and the Punta della Dogana art museum.
After catching up with artists from centuries ago and some modern day artisans you can either take a slow walk back the way you came, or catch the vaporetto back across the Grand Canal to San Marco.
We chose the slow walk back so we could do more exploring – I was amazed/horrified as I looked down one of the historic lanes towards a cute little arched bridge to see an enormous cruise ship leaving Venice through the Guidecca Canal. When I saw where the Cruise ship terminal was from the top of the bell tower in Piazza San Marco earlier, I thought that was bad enough, but I at least thought they would have the manners to arrive and depart around the south side of the Guidecca Islands and stay as far as possible from the delicate foundations Venice sits upon. After speaking to a number of local Venetians it seems they all absolutely detest everything about the cruise ships coming into the lagoon, and bringing 2000 plus passengers on each ship that all descend on San Marco Piazza at once making life hell for everyone, they add nothing to the Venetian economy, they don’t eat in the restaurants, most go back to the ship to eat. Apart from the damage the ships do by stirring up the water in the canal, sure they move fairly slowly, but underwater is where the damage is done, and Venice relies on what is under the water in order for the city to stay above it. Having that many tourists all trying to be in the same space at the same time, ruins Venice for everyone, there are times when you can’t move or see anything for the people, and a lot of them don’t seem to be remotely interested in the magnificent history of what they are experiencing – they are just getting in the way! I imagine that Venice earns good money from berthing the ships, but they could get the same money if the ships berthed out at the entrance to the lagoon, the passengers would still have a great view of Venice from the deck and those who were interested to immerse themselves in the historic splendour of Venice, could catch a vaporetto in to the city. Then they might have more respect for Venice and its people, instead of treating the place as a shipping terminal, as boarding and disembarking from a ship is easily done in less fragile surroundings.
Itinerary for Trip Over to Italy – Milan, Como and Venice
Qantas flight (Emirates code share) to Milan (Malpensa) from Sydney via Dubai
Stayed in Milan, Airbnb, for a week before going to Como
Picked up in Milan by Como Limousines and driven to Como
Stayed in Como, Airbnb, for 3 weeks
Picked up in Como by Como Limousines and driven to Venice
In Venice, water taxi to Al Ponte Antico Hotel for 3 nights and water taxi back
Picked up in Venice by Como Limousines and driven back to Como
Picked up in Como by Como Limousines and driven back to Milan (Malpensa) Airport
Qantas flight (Emirates code share) to Sydney via Dubai
Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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The Florence Cathedral, Duomo di Firenze, was built between 1296 and 1436, the last 16 years of that time spent building the dome, that can be seen from all around Florence. (There has been a church on this site since 393!) The building is enormous, then add the Baptistry and the bell tower it really is the centre of Florence.
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The pulpit in Siena Duomo, and the stairs leading up to it, I can`t get over the fact that people have been walking in here for over 1000 years, and I`m one of them🌞
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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The daily seafood market that has been trading in Rialto, Venice for centuries and still very much in demand supplying all the locals, the restaurants and the Airbnbers. They have everything and more, all beautifully fresh and ready to be turned into something fabulous!!
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Corniglia is the only one of the villages along the Cinque Terre coastline you can get to by road, which must be an enormous help for the people who live there.
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The beautiful Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, built between 1600 and 1603, to move prisoners from Palazzo Ducale to the prisons across the canal. The closed bridge is one of the most famous and photographed in Venice. You can still walk across it today when visiting the Doge`s Palace.
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia can be seen between buildings all over this magnificent medieval city.
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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The bronze sculpture of il Porcellino at Mercato Nuovo in Florence, rubbing the boars snout ensures you will return to Florence - it works!! This was my second visit, I rubbed his snout again......so looks like I`ll be back again 🥰🥂!!
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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Looking over Piazza dei Miracoli at Pisa Duomo, from the upper level of the Baptistery, with the Leaning Tower peaking out behind it. The Cathedral was completed in 1092!! Then it took a further 300 years to complete the bell tower, that became more famous because of it`s lean.
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Look at all those steps!! Fortunately, just down the road there is a lift and funicular to get you up to where the castle is. But I suppose if you live half way up, you wouldn`t want to forget the milk!!
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My first sighting of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!! It does have quite a lean to it!! Built in the 12th century, it leaned immediately, but then leaned more......by 1990 it was leaning 5.5 degrees, it was then stabilised back to just under 4 degrees after under going some remedial work.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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This lampshade made from umbrellas was most appropriate for my first few days in Venice, it just rained....🌧 but I always knew I was heading in the right direction to get back to my hotel when I saw this.
Pic 2 is a really old Venetian Windows with the wall crumbling around it.
Pic 3 is evidence of Venice falling apart right in front of us, the salt damage to the old walls is tragic.
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Castello San Giorgio in La Spezia has been protecting this part of Italy since 1262, it now houses a museum and a fabulous view from the top. There is a lift up from the town area, then cross the road and jump on to the funicular to get up to the castle, or if you`re feel fit, there are steps, many, many of them!! La Spezia is just south of Cinque Terre, therefore an excellent base to see this area from.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #solotravelinitaly
When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine 🤣!!
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Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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Cicchetti became my favourite thing in Venice!! Late afternoon/early evening, the Venetian answer to Aperitivo, with a glass of wine or a Limoncello Spritz, yum. The best ones were found away from the tourist traps, where the locals go.
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The railway station at Monterosso al Mare is right at the beach, don`t be fooled by the lack of crowds on the platform, the train just left going north, the crowds are all behind me waiting to catch the train down to the other Cinque Terre villages, or to La Spezia, where I was staying.
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In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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Inside Siena Duomo, the black and white marble soaring up to the ceiling, I can`t imagine how they built this way back in the 1200s. You can go up to the upper level and look down into the Cathedral from the little windows in the top right of my photo.
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Ponte Vecchio, crossing River Arno, the top level is the Vasari Passage coming from Uffuzi Gallery. Ponte Vecchio started off as butcher shops, the waste product being thrown into the river, the stench was said to be unbearable. Now mainly jewellery shops, not smelly at all!!!
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Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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From the terrace behind the little church in my previous post, looking north from Corniglia towards Montarosso way off in the distance.
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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The foot bridge to the Marina in La Spezia makes for a lovely walk in the afternoon, there are a few bars and restaurants out there too 🥂!! I am so pleased I chose to stay in La Spezia and visit Cinque Terre, and other towns in the area, from there, it`s a lovely town and my hotel @hotelfirenzelaspezia up near the station, was fantastic.
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The black and white marble bell tower at Siena Duomo stands at 77mtrs, the bells can be heard all over the town, the oldest of the 6 bells was cast in 1149. You can`t climb the bell tower, thankfully (because I would have!!) But you can go up to the balcony around the Cathedral dome next to it, which I did.....the views over Tuscany are spectacular!
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#siena #sienaduomo #sienaduomobellissimagiornata #belltower #sienahistory #sienatravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #sienatrip #sienaitalia #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring
The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiore #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggioretunnel #mosaicart #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #italytravel #madeinitaly
After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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#laspeziaitaly #laspeziaharbourside #laspezia #ferries #laspeziaboat #sailinglife #laspeziamarina #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #solotrip #italianferries #neverstoptravelling #bluewaterandsunshine
The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #cinqueterre #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #belltower
The streets of Venice getting a good wash in the rain, the fist pic is one of the main paths to cut through, I love the fact that people have been walking down here for hundreds of years, and I`m one of them!! The second pic is the Rialto Market building, the market has been trading here since 1097, the current building dates back to the 1500s and still trades every morning, then gets scrubbed down in the afternoon ready for the next day.
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A statue of Robert Wagnet in Piazza Doria in La Spezia, Italy. Wagner was inspired to write some of his music after spending some time in this town.
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#laspeziaitaly #laspezia #laspeziaharbourside #laspeziacentro #robertwagner #robertwagnerlaspezia #sculpture #artinpublicplaces #piazzadoria #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #italytrip #madeinitaly #sculpture #traveladdict #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything
Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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There she is....quite amazing really, just leaning there for over 1000 years, next to Pisa Duomo. The tower is actually the bell tower for the Cathedral. I love the way these beautiful buildings are surrounded by lawns that you are not allowed to walk on. This keeps everyone at a distance so everyone can see, not just the people leaning on the monument.
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Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia as seen from the dome of Siena Duomo, with the beautiful Tuscan countryside rolling out past the Siena city walls.
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#siena #sienatravel #sienaitaly #sienaduomo #sienatrip #sienaitalia #torredelmangia #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #medievalitaliancity #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #madeinitaly #viewfromthedome
