Campo dei Fiori
Trip Over to Rome
The Campo dei Fiori market in Rome became a daily event for us. Living like the Italians and just picking up what we needed each day rather than going to the supermarket and buying up trolley loads as we do at home. Fortunately our apartment in Rome was a short walk to Campo dei Fiori (meaning field of flowers), so this wasn’t out of our way, and we got to know the stall holders. The first time I was at one of the vegetable stalls, the lady working there was horrified when I started picking out the salad leaves I wanted, but after that she would just give me a small plastic bag and leave me to it. We didn’t eat at the apartment much really, but the occasional meal and lighter snacks were needed, and of course some lovely Italian wines, or a bit of Limoncello on the terrace while we watched Rome go about the business of being Roman.
The first morning I woke up in Rome the view I had from my bed, across the lounge room of our apartment across to Janiculum Hill in one direction and to dome of Sant’ Andrea della Valle in the other had me leaping out of bed and getting ready to get out amongst it. Most days for us started with taking in the view over Largo di Torre Argentina right outside our apartment. Now a cat sanctuary, where Rome’s many stray cats hang out. Not that we saw or heard many of them, they keep pretty much to themselves. There is a lot of archealogical digging going on (we didn’t hear or see much of that either, just the signs of it), as during the rezoning of Rome for planned redevelopment in 1909, parts of giant marble statues and columns were uncovered. This led to the discovery of four temples and the Theatre of Pompey, where Julius Caesar was assassinated in 55 BC.
The square’s name has nothing to do with Argentina, the country. It came from the Papal Master of Ceremonies, Johannes Burckardt, who came from Strasbourg in 1503, he was known as Argentinius. The Tower in the square was named after him – Torre Argentina.
Across the square we spotted a coffee shop, called Cafffe Camerino (Yes there are 3 fs in Cafffe!) A Camerino is a theatre dressing room, so drawing reference to the Theatre of Pompey that sits underneath it. Our day out in Rome would generally begin by popping over to the Cafffe for a coffee, standing up, at the bar as they do in Italy. Of course, you can sit down – but it costs more and you move away from the atmosphere – when in Rome, do as the Romans do……….. Cafffe Camerino also serves the most delicious selection of mini pastries to have with coffee, and that’s breakfast taken care of.
A further 100 mtrs down Largo Arenula, then a right turn at Piazza Bendetto Cairoli, keep walking along here, the bakeries, delis, bag shops, fashion shops should slow you down, and just watching the people is fascinating. As you get closer to Campo dei Fiori you will notice the street name changes to Via dei Giubbonari, which is the street of tailors. All the streets around Campo dei Fiori are named for the work that was done there. Via dei Balestrari (crossbow makers), Via dei Cappellari (hat-makers), Via dei Chiavari (key-makers).
Along the way you will come across Forno Roscioli, the Roscioli family bakery since 1824, delicious pies and tarts, breads and pizza, but don’t worry, Rome is a walking city, and quick hike up Janiculum Hill and you’ll work it all off!
You will then arrive at the bustling market that is Campo dei Fiori, the only piazza in Rome without a church. Fruit, vegetables, pasta, oils, vinegars, pots, pans, everything is there. If you can’t find it in the market, the shops will have it. Some of the stalls are set up for tourists, coloured pastas and things like that, but it’s all interesting.
I particularly liked a little shop run by the Ruggeri family since 1919, up in the corner of the Campo near the corner of Via dei Guibbonari and Via dei Balestrari, the perfect place to pick up some wine, cheese, olives, a bit of porchetta and make sure you pick up some Limoncello to finish with and you’re all set………
Camp dei Fiori has a full history from being a field of flowers, to the path the Pope took to get through to the Vatican, to holding a flourishing horse market in the 1500s, to the public executions that were held here in the 1600s. There is a statue of philosopher Giordano Bruno, who was burnt alive for heresy, then regarded as a martyr to freedom of thought. The statue stands in the spot where the burning happened, defiantly facing the Vatican.
The market moved from Piazza Navona to the current location in 1869. Every morning the market is set up, then it is all packed away, the whole area is cleaned up and the evening crowd comes to fill the bars and clubs around the piazza. My only suggestion here is look but don’t try – any bar or restaurant with someone out the front touting for business is not where the locals go. You won’t get the best food, or the best service here, and you will pay more. But do go to some of the smaller places that don’t have a touter out the front, they serve great aperitivo – small delicious snacks served with drinks before dinner – while you indulge in a little people watching.
Book a tour on your Trip Over to Rome
Itinerary for Trip Over to Rome
Flew from Sydney to Rome via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Largo di Argentina for a month – rented through Sleep in Italy, now available on Airbnb.
Walked all over Rome, bought a one month transport ticket for buses, the metro and some trains.
We caught the fast train from Rome Termini to Florence, and stayed for 3 nights at the Hotel Savoy.
While in Florence we went on a tour with Viator to Siena and San Gimignano.
Arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday with a private transfer with Viator.
Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The black and white marble bell tower at Siena Duomo stands at 77mtrs, the bells can be heard all over the town, the oldest of the 6 bells was cast in 1149. You can`t climb the bell tower, thankfully (because I would have!!) But you can go up to the balcony around the Cathedral dome next to it, which I did.....the views over Tuscany are spectacular!
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My first sighting of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!! It does have quite a lean to it!! Built in the 12th century, it leaned immediately, but then leaned more......by 1990 it was leaning 5.5 degrees, it was then stabilised back to just under 4 degrees after under going some remedial work.
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Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia as seen from the dome of Siena Duomo, with the beautiful Tuscan countryside rolling out past the Siena city walls.
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The beautiful Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, built between 1600 and 1603, to move prisoners from Palazzo Ducale to the prisons across the canal. The closed bridge is one of the most famous and photographed in Venice. You can still walk across it today when visiting the Doge`s Palace.
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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The Florence Cathedral, Duomo di Firenze, was built between 1296 and 1436, the last 16 years of that time spent building the dome, that can be seen from all around Florence. (There has been a church on this site since 393!) The building is enormous, then add the Baptistry and the bell tower it really is the centre of Florence.
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Walk through this little tunnel under the rock from one rocky beach to another one!! Luckily I`m not the sit on a beach type, very rocky coastline around Vernazza in Cinque Terre, Italy.
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In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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One of the loveliest medieval Italian cities, exploring centuries of tradition. The people are all so nice, and all helped by the beautiful boutique hotel I stayed in @relaisdegliangeli my beautiful home for not long enough 🥺 I will have to go back one day.
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The Chapel of St Catherine Flagellants behind the monument to the people of Corniglia who died in the Facist/anti-Facist uprisings in 1926. Up the stairs at the side of the Chapel there is a platform with a view out over the sea.
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On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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The very detailed front of Siena Duomo, built between 1215 and 1264, in the beautiful medieval Tuscan city of Siena. The Duomo is quite the feature of Siena, both inside and out, you can`t get enough of it. The tour into the upper levels really accentuates how enormous it is. If you`re thinking of a trip over to Italy, Siena is a must.
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The streets of Siena, some are flat, or flattish, they undulate with the terrain they were built on centuries ago, some are steep slopes, some are steep steps, some are a combination three, but all are interesting...
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Inside Siena Duomo, amazing to think it was built over 1000 years ago, and is still standing in original condition. You can pretty much guarantee that there will be nothing built today that will still be standing in 1000 years!!
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The Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Vernazza, with it`s octagonal bell tower has been sitting in the main square in Vernazza since the 13th century. I guess it`s OK to leave your guitar and guitar case out on the rocks by itself before the crowds arrive!!
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia can be seen between buildings all over this magnificent medieval city.
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Ponte Vecchio, crossing River Arno, the top level is the Vasari Passage coming from Uffuzi Gallery. Ponte Vecchio started off as butcher shops, the waste product being thrown into the river, the stench was said to be unbearable. Now mainly jewellery shops, not smelly at all!!!
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When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine 🤣!!
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As the ferry from La Spezia pulled into Vernazza, on the Cinque Terre coast, we were all mesmerised by the efficiency of this helicopter that seemed to be bringing building supplies in from just over this hill, where the closest road is. The guys who unhooked the load were so fast the chopper seemed to not even slow down as it spun around to go back for the next load, then the same at the pick up location, it just swooped in and they were ready to hook the next load on and it flew on, a well rehearsed routine!!
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It was really hard taking photos of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the temptation to line it up straight in the lens is something I struggled with, having it next to a straight building helps!!!
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One last quick look at Riomaggiore, behind me about 400 people were pouring off boats to take over Riomaggiore, after this photo I went straight to the station to get out of there. All the shops full of tea towels, socks and touristy junk were ready for them......I wanted out.....
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Riomaggiore is the southern most of the Cinque Terre villages, closest to my base in La Spezia on the Italian coast. On my first day, I caught the ferry from La Spezia to Montarosso so I could see all the villages from the water, before exploring on land.
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Like most Italian cities, Siena has many churches. This is Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, still going strong after opening it`s doors in 1226!!!
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#siena #sienatrip #sienahistory #sienaitaly #sienatravel #sienaitalia #basilicacaterinianadisandomenico #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #neverstopexporing #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #medievalitaliancity #historicitaly #madeinitaly
The daily seafood market that has been trading in Rialto, Venice for centuries and still very much in demand supplying all the locals, the restaurants and the Airbnbers. They have everything and more, all beautifully fresh and ready to be turned into something fabulous!!
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#seafoodmarket #rialtomarket #rialtomarket_venice #freshseafoodmarket #veniceitaly #venice #venicelife #venicetrip #veniceintherain #italytravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italyfoodporn #italyiloveyou #traveltheworldwithme #traveltheworldworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything
Gondolas on the Grand Canal in Venice near Rialto Bridge, and on one of many smaller canals, giving way to a delivery boat to go under a small bridge. Love the way the Gondoliers kick off the wall to stop the boat hitting the wall and to steer it off in the right direction.
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#venice #grandcanal #goldola #gondolier #outonthecanal #underrialtobridge #canalsinvenice #italy #italytravel #italytrip #veniceitaly #venicecanals #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #waterworld #lifeonthewater #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #venicetrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme
Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #stepsstepsandmoresteps #italianadventure
Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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#solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #traveladdict #laspezia #laspeziaitaly #castellosangiorgio #stairwaytoheaven #manymanystepstoclimb #laspeziacentro #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture #explorelaspezia
The bell tower, Torre Campanaria, in Manarola in Cinque Terre National Park.
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#torrecampanaria #torrecampanariamanarola #manarola #manarola5terre #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling
Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #boatsboatsboats #riomaggioreharbour #visitcinqueterre #italianadventure #italytravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #stepsstepsandmoresteps #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring
Inside the Baptistery next to Pisa Duomo in Piazza dei Miracoli, it seems black and white marble was all the go 1000 years ago, one of my favourites now!!
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#pisaitaly #pisafieldofmiracles #pisabaptisteryofstjohn #pisatrip #pisabaptistery #battisterodisangiovanni #pulpit #pisafieldofmiracles #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
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