Art in Prague
Trip Over to the Czech Republic
Everywhere you look there is art in Prague, whether it is in the form of the statues on the Charles Bridge, the architecture of the old and modern buildings, political statements or modern art. Prague is an amazingly beautiful city and the two weeks I spent there was barely enough time to explore everything. Fortunately Prague is a great city for walking, as all the works I mention in this story are easily found without going too far or up many hills, we’ll cover the more far flung and lofty in other stories.
Beautiful things are everywhere, you just come across them. On a bench in Wencelas Square casually sits a perfect bronze sculpture of a man, I can’t find any information of who he is, who created him or what he represents, but I like him. He just sits there in the square watching the passing parade of shoppers, sightseers, and locals, while good King Wencelas looks down from his horse at the top.
Further up through the old town next door to the Spanish Synagogue, in Dusni Street in the historic Jewish Quarter, you will find a statue by Jaroslav Rona, of Franz Kafka being carried on the shoulders of a giant headless man. Based on one’s of Kafka’s stories, “Description of a Struggle”, which tells the story of a political candidate carried through the streets of Prague on another man’s shoulders. But in this case the man being carried is Kafka himself. There are often crowds gathered around this statue, and tour groups stop there, we had a coffee outside a great coffee shop across the road so I could pick my moment to run across and get some photos.
Art is found not just out on the streets and large galleries, small galleries are everywhere, like Inter Art Gallery in Husova Street is worth popping in to. This one showing art by Gor Avetisyan, and run by his sister is really interesting, a very talented family. Beautiful 3D details added to paintings using plaster really bring them to life, and the little statuettes and vases are exquisite.
At the foot of Petrin Hill, not far from where you catch the funicular to the top of the hill, you will find the Memorial to the Victims of Communism unveiled in 2002, twelve years after the fall of communism. The bronze plaque reads, “The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism”. The memorial, created by Czech sculptor Olbram Zoubek, and architects Jan Kerel and Zdenek Holzel, shows seven bronze figures descending a flight of stairs, the further they are from you the more decayed they are, their bodies breaking up, limbs missing. The bronze strip up the middle of the path showing the alarming statistics of those impacted by communist rule, those arrested, those forced into exile, those who died in prison, those shot trying to escape, those executed, a sobering moment in a beautiful park.
On Narodni Street in a small arcade is a bronze plaque showing hands reaching out from the wall, dated 17.11.1989, the date of the Velvet Revolution, this memorial is to the students who were attacked and beaten by the communist police desperately trying to hold on to power eight days after the fall of the Berlin Wall – the day 41 years of communist rule came to an end, and Czechoslovakia became the Czech Republic, 17th November is a national holiday in the Czech Republic.
Hanging above the street just near our favourite coffee and pastry shop in the New Town area, Boulangerie Patisserie, a man and a woman hanging from umbrellas, called “Slight Uncertainty” by the artist Michal Trpak, they represent feelings during the depression. I guess slight uncertainty would be a bit of an understatement if the only thing stopping you from dropping to the road was an umbrella, but you can imagine where he was going here. Prague is filled with interesting and unusual things, as you amble around the streets don’t forget to look up as well as all around.
There is such great respect for art that they don’t confine it to galleries and museums, it is everywhere, shopping centres, hanging above the streets and in arcades. One piece that the powers that be deemed too offensive to be in public is displayed in the grounds of a private museum. They took it promising to always leave their gates open so the public could access it if they wanted to – and they do, in droves! The fountain called “Piss” by Czech artist David Cerny, can be found in the grounds of the Franz Kafka Museum in Mala Strana. The bronze basin of the fountain is the shape of the map of the Czech Republic, there are two gyrating mechanical “gentlemen” standing in it peeing on their country. Apparently, visitors can instruct the “gentlemen”, by SMS, to write messages in pee, and they do, with much hip swivelling and penis waggling- but that’s another story.
David Cerny has over ten sculptures displayed in Prague, all considered to be slightly offensive but amusing, he has been accused of being a hooligan, and some have tried, and failed, to have his work banned. If you don’t like it, don’t look at it – on the grand scale of offensive things in public, in my view, you’re trying to ban the wrong thing!
After leaving the Franz Kafka Museum walk down through Mala Strana before going under Charles Bridge, on the right is a glass shop, Artel, all things crystal couture are available here. (I bought a beautiful water carafe that I just love on my bed side table, and many pairs of earrings). Then go under the bridge and just to the left is a little shop called Vanda and Valerie, tucked into the wall of the bridge selling the most amazing hand painted mugs, (yes, I bought some!), earrings and other nick nacks, definitely worth taking a look before going to look at the Lennon Wall – the wall’s owners, the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, allow the graffiti, song lyrics and messages of peace to remain there. Occasionally it gets painted over then it all starts again. On the anniversary of John Lennon’s death there is a candle light vigil.
Come back down from the Lennon Wall and continue along the path through Kampa Park on the west side of the Vltava River. The Giant Bronze Babies are near the Kampa Museum, these sculptures of crawling babies all have weird smushed in faces. More of these babies can be seen crawling up the TV tower.
The Kampa Museum houses the sculpture garden, and many more fascinating art works on display inside. Looking out of the window to the river you can see the Yellow Penguins, by the Cracking Art Group, made from recycled plastic bottles taken from landfill sites. The penguins are marching in protest of what is happening to their Antarctic home due to global warming and environmental destruction.
Sitting out on the river at one of the breakwaters is a giant timber chair, made by Magdalena Jetolova called the Vltava Chair, the chair was washed away in one of the great floods and found 50kms down river.
Back across the river in Husova Street, between the Old Town Square and Charles Bridge if you look up you will be shocked to see a man dangling by one hand from a piece of wood jutting out from the roof, at first everyone gasps – is a suicide attempt? No, it’s another of David Cerny’s statues. This one is Sigmund Freud hinting at the powerlessness and hopelessness of man in the modern world, but not willing to let go.
Behind shops near Narodni Trida Metro Station sits an enormous rotating head of Franz Kafka by David Cerny. It has 42 rotating layers and when they all align it forms the Czech writer’s face. There is a cocktail bar nearby, the perfect venue to watch this metamorphosis take place.
Back near Wencelas Square, inside an art nouveau arcade called Lucena Pasaz, just up Stepansha Street opposite the Grand Hotel Europa, there is another David Cerney sculpture, this time possibly mocking the current Czech President, Vavlav Klaus, a frequent subject of Cerney’s derision. Here as King Wencelas sitting in the same pose as King Wencelas on the statue outside in Wencelas Square, astride his horse, but he doesn’t seem to realise the horse is dead, upside down and unceremoniously suspended from the ceiling.
David Cerny never comments publicly on his works – so over to you – make of it what you will….
Itinerary for Trip Over to Prague and Berlin
Flights from Sydney to Prague via Dubai with Qantas/Emirates
Stayed for 2 weeks in a beautiful apartment near the Dancing House, found on Airbnb.
Had a driver from On Day Trip pick us up in Prague and drive us to Berlin
Stayed for 2 weeks in Berlin in one of the magnificent penthouse apartments at Gorki Apartments near Rosenthaler Platz U-Bahn Station.
Return flights with Lufthansa from Berlin to Frankfurt, then Qantas/Emirates from Frankfurt to Sydney via Dubai.
On your walk around the bay from Lerici to San Terenzo, this house was one of many buildings along the way where the window frames and the mouldings above the windows are 3D on the front of the building and on the sides, they are all painted on, even with the shadow!! Very talented artist.
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One of the fountains in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens up towards the NSW Art Gallery. I think someone needs to turn the tap on a bit more, it`s lacking in oomph!!
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Tucked away inside Lerici Castle in the Gulf of Poets on the Italian coast, is the medieval Chapel of Santa Anastasia in the central core of the castle, well protected, so it has remained the same since the 13th century.
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An enormous stainless steel sculpture of Captain James Cook in the NSW Art Gallery, just next to the Royal Botanic Gardens. I made a detour to the Art Gallery before heading back into the gardens to continue my walk.
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#captaincook #stainlesssteelsculpture #nswartgallery #nswartgallerysydney #sydneyweekend #sydney #sydneylocal #sydneywalks #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #sydneylife #sydneystyle #explorethecityyoulivein
What is the most efficient way to get from Venice Marco Polo Airport into Venice?
Alilaguna Water Bus,
@alilaguna_official operate from the airport to several stops around Venice and along the Grand Canal, making it very easy for solo travellers to get yourself and your luggage to your hotel with a minimum of fuss. I stayed the lovely @rialtohotelvenice just near the Rialto Vaporetto stop, so very convenient.
Click to link to my website in the bio to read bout my arrival in this watery wonder world.
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After walking up to the top of Lerici Castle, the drizzly rain had stopped, so I decided to walk all the way around the bay to San Terenzo, this place will be packed to the rafters, but in early April the only people around were people doing maintenance to get ready for the season.... and me.....
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This is typical of the style of buildings along the waterfront in Lerici, they all have a great view out over the bay.
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The pond in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens, with glimpses of Sydney Harbour in the background.
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Corniglia is the only one of the villages along the Cinque Terre coastline you can get to by road, which must be an enormous help for the people who live there.
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Taking a short break from posting pics from my recent Trip Over to Italy, back here in Sydney, the Royal Botanic Gardens on the edge of Sydney Harbour, held the Fleurs de Villes exhibition at Calyx, this exhibit was just inside the entrance gates near the Sydney Opera House. One of those perfect winter days 🌞!!
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San Terenzo Castle has been looking over the town and beach since the 12th century, it has seen some stuff in it`s time!! All around the base of the castle is full of kayaks storage and other small boats waiting for a summer out on the bay.
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#santerenzo #santerenzocastle ##santerenzobeach #medievalitaly #italianhistory #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #castles_oftheworld #kayaksandboats #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #historygeek #historicitaly #lookouttower #madeinitaly
A sculpture of a tree on the beach front in San Terenzo, in the Gulf of Poets, near La Spezia in Italy. It was a lovely place to amble around on a cool, cloudy day in early spring.
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I caught the bus from La Spezia out to Lerici, on the southern side of the Gulf of Poets. So many boats in the bay, and look, another medieval castle for me to climb to the top of!!! Travellers tip:- there is a lift up to the castle 😃!! It`s fairly well hidden, but if you walk around the bay to the base of the castle, you will see a tunnel full of kayaks, just up there is the lift.
In the second photo, out in the distance on the left of the pic, you can see Chiesa di San Pietro out on the point in Porto Venere on the other side of the bay, see my previous 9 posts for Porto Venere photos.
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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More steps to climb!!! Up to the, I`m going to call it the terrace, to look out for the enemy approaching - all clear out on the Gulf of Poets as far as Porto Venere in the distance and the weather beaten Italian flag continues to fly at Lerici Castle.
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The beach club on the bay between Lerici and San Terenzo, in the Gulf of Poets, Italy, just waiting for the sun to come out.
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Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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The Chapel of St Catherine Flagellants behind the monument to the people of Corniglia who died in the Facist/anti-Facist uprisings in 1926. Up the stairs at the side of the Chapel there is a platform with a view out over the sea.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #wineterraces #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #madeinitaly
Sydney` Royal Botanic Gardens starting to come to life at the end of winter. It is still winter here, but we are having hotter weather that we get in peak summer, hopefully this doesn`t mean we are in for a relentlessly hot summer 😳
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As any trip to Italy is full of medieval steps to climb to see fabulous things, Lerici is no different!! These are the steps from the bay up to Lerici Castle, or you can look out for this little unmarked tunnel, walk into the tunnel about 20 metres, and there is a lift up to the base of the castle. From there, there are still plenty of steps to climb up to get to the various levels in the castle, all worth it!!
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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Further up the hill in Porto Venere is Chiesa di San Lorenzo, another medieval church with an amazing view out over the bay, the tall ship out there adds to the ambience.
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Back down at sea level in Porto Venere, beautiful restaurants and the smell of the sea, with Doria Castle and San Lorenzo Church watching over from high up the hill. It was quite a walk up to the top, but it`s doable, (even for an old chic with a dicky knee!!), you zig-zag slowly rising as you rise higher past San Pietro, past San Lorenzo and up to the castle.
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From the terrace behind the little church in my previous post, looking north from Corniglia towards Montarosso way off in the distance.
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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Everything you think there can`t possibly be any more steps, there`s just a few more, then maybe just a few more!! But the view out over the Cinque Terre coast is worth it.
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San Terenzo castle looking over the deserted beach as the boats and chairs get rolled out ready for beach weather, that actually arrived the day after I was there.
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#santerenzo #santerenzolerici #santerenzobeach #lerici #lericicoast #santerenzocastle #dessertedbeach #boatsboatsboats #gettingbeachready #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #daytripfromlaspezia
Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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Oratorio di San Rocco, the small church with the clock and bell tower in Lerici, one of the more modern churches in the area, having opened in 1523!!
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The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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Walk through this little tunnel under the rock from one rocky beach to another one!! Luckily I`m not the sit on a beach type, very rocky coastline around Vernazza in Cinque Terre, Italy.
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The Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Vernazza, with it`s octagonal bell tower has been sitting in the main square in Vernazza since the 13th century. I guess it`s OK to leave your guitar and guitar case out on the rocks by itself before the crowds arrive!!
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#churchofsantamargheritadantiochia #vernazzaitaly #vernazza #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #guitarontherocks #umbrellasofitaly #lifebythesea #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #italytrip
#manarola #manarola5terre #cinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #solotravelinitaly
My walk towards San Terenzo from Lerici continues, past this very rocky section of the bay, towards the next empty beach.....I know this beach would have been a hive of activity the day after I was here, it was much warmer and a beautul sunny day.....but I was off to Pisa that day.
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#santerenzo #santerenzobeach #santerenzochedelgolfoepiubelfiore #santerenzolerici #lerici #lericicoast #lericiitaly #lericioutdoor #gulfofpoets #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #laspezia #italianadventure #italytravel #earlyspringinitaly #emptybeach #seasidewalk #traveltheworldwithme #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling
This appealed to me......in the Art Gallery of NSW, Sydney. In reality it is an enormous work, but everything I see it a different size, it looks like something else.
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#artgallery #nswartgallerysydney #nswartgallery #artoftheday #artlover #explorethecityyoulivein #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #sydney #sydneyaustralia #sydneylocal
As the ferry from La Spezia pulled into Vernazza, on the Cinque Terre coast, we were all mesmerised by the efficiency of this helicopter that seemed to be bringing building supplies in from just over this hill, where the closest road is. The guys who unhooked the load were so fast the chopper seemed to not even slow down as it spun around to go back for the next load, then the same at the pick up location, it just swooped in and they were ready to hook the next load on and it flew on, a well rehearsed routine!!
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#vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre helicopter #deliveringsupplies #vineyardsofitaly #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italianadventure
Half way around the bay on my walk from Lerici to San Terenzo, looking over one of the beach clubs, still closed before the season starts, to Lerici Castle and the town of Lerici.
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#santerenzo #santerenzobeach #santerenzolerici #santerenzochedelgolfoepiubelfiore
#lerici #lericicoast #lericicastle #Italiancoast #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind #beforetheseason
In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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#monterossoalmarecinqueterre #monterosso #monterossoalmare #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterre #artinpublicplaces #tunnelinmonterosso #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #italytrip
Sea creatures carved into the rocks in a wall in Vernazza, Cinque Terre. Each of the villages has a quirky art work somewhere!!
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#carvedrocks #artinpublicplaces #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italianadventure #madeinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
And even further up the hill in Porto Venere, the old castle walls, the ancient pathways, and more fantastic views out across the bay, and over Chiesa di San Pietro perched high above the sea.
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#portovenereitaly #portovenere #oldcitywalls #italianarchitecture #italianadventure #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicitaly #lookouttower #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #medievalitaly #ancientcastle #chiesadisanpietroportovenere #viewfromthetop #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything #experiencelifethroughtravel #
Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #chiesasanpietro #chiesasanpietrocorniglia #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #solotrip #italianadventure #italytravel
As my ferry from La Spezia to Monterosso rounded the point Chiesa di San Pietro on above Porto Venere, I knew this was a place I needed to visit. This church has been here looking over the sea since 1198. After seeing the way the villages of Cinque Terre have lost their character to tourism, I imagine Porto Venere is what Cinque Terre used to be like - very few people, absolutely beautiful and so much history, a just a short bus ride from La Spezia.
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#portovenere #laspeziatomontarosaferry #daytripfromlaspezia #chiesasanpietro #chiesadisanpietroportovenere #medievalitaly #italianhistory #madeinitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #italianadventure
The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #cinqueterre #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #belltower
Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza ##vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #santamargheritadantiochia #medievalitaly #13thcenturyarchitecture #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #seekandyoushallfind
Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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#vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #travelbyboat #outonthewater #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme
