Art in Prague
Trip Over to the Czech Republic
Everywhere you look there is art in Prague, whether it is in the form of the statues on the Charles Bridge, the architecture of the old and modern buildings, political statements or modern art. Prague is an amazingly beautiful city and the two weeks I spent there was barely enough time to explore everything. Fortunately Prague is a great city for walking, as all the works I mention in this story are easily found without going too far or up many hills, we’ll cover the more far flung and lofty in other stories.
Beautiful things are everywhere, you just come across them. On a bench in Wencelas Square casually sits a perfect bronze sculpture of a man, I can’t find any information of who he is, who created him or what he represents, but I like him. He just sits there in the square watching the passing parade of shoppers, sightseers, and locals, while good King Wencelas looks down from his horse at the top.
Further up through the old town next door to the Spanish Synagogue, in Dusni Street in the historic Jewish Quarter, you will find a statue by Jaroslav Rona, of Franz Kafka being carried on the shoulders of a giant headless man. Based on one’s of Kafka’s stories, “Description of a Struggle”, which tells the story of a political candidate carried through the streets of Prague on another man’s shoulders. But in this case the man being carried is Kafka himself. There are often crowds gathered around this statue, and tour groups stop there, we had a coffee outside a great coffee shop across the road so I could pick my moment to run across and get some photos.
Art is found not just out on the streets and large galleries, small galleries are everywhere, like Inter Art Gallery in Husova Street is worth popping in to. This one showing art by Gor Avetisyan, and run by his sister is really interesting, a very talented family. Beautiful 3D details added to paintings using plaster really bring them to life, and the little statuettes and vases are exquisite.
At the foot of Petrin Hill, not far from where you catch the funicular to the top of the hill, you will find the Memorial to the Victims of Communism unveiled in 2002, twelve years after the fall of communism. The bronze plaque reads, “The memorial to the victims of communism is dedicated to all victims not only those who were jailed or executed but also those whose lives were ruined by totalitarian despotism”. The memorial, created by Czech sculptor Olbram Zoubek, and architects Jan Kerel and Zdenek Holzel, shows seven bronze figures descending a flight of stairs, the further they are from you the more decayed they are, their bodies breaking up, limbs missing. The bronze strip up the middle of the path showing the alarming statistics of those impacted by communist rule, those arrested, those forced into exile, those who died in prison, those shot trying to escape, those executed, a sobering moment in a beautiful park.
On Narodni Street in a small arcade is a bronze plaque showing hands reaching out from the wall, dated 17.11.1989, the date of the Velvet Revolution, this memorial is to the students who were attacked and beaten by the communist police desperately trying to hold on to power eight days after the fall of the Berlin Wall – the day 41 years of communist rule came to an end, and Czechoslovakia became the Czech Republic, 17th November is a national holiday in the Czech Republic.
Hanging above the street just near our favourite coffee and pastry shop in the New Town area, Boulangerie Patisserie, a man and a woman hanging from umbrellas, called “Slight Uncertainty” by the artist Michal Trpak, they represent feelings during the depression. I guess slight uncertainty would be a bit of an understatement if the only thing stopping you from dropping to the road was an umbrella, but you can imagine where he was going here. Prague is filled with interesting and unusual things, as you amble around the streets don’t forget to look up as well as all around.
There is such great respect for art that they don’t confine it to galleries and museums, it is everywhere, shopping centres, hanging above the streets and in arcades. One piece that the powers that be deemed too offensive to be in public is displayed in the grounds of a private museum. They took it promising to always leave their gates open so the public could access it if they wanted to – and they do, in droves! The fountain called “Piss” by Czech artist David Cerny, can be found in the grounds of the Franz Kafka Museum in Mala Strana. The bronze basin of the fountain is the shape of the map of the Czech Republic, there are two gyrating mechanical “gentlemen” standing in it peeing on their country. Apparently, visitors can instruct the “gentlemen”, by SMS, to write messages in pee, and they do, with much hip swivelling and penis waggling- but that’s another story.
David Cerny has over ten sculptures displayed in Prague, all considered to be slightly offensive but amusing, he has been accused of being a hooligan, and some have tried, and failed, to have his work banned. If you don’t like it, don’t look at it – on the grand scale of offensive things in public, in my view, you’re trying to ban the wrong thing!
After leaving the Franz Kafka Museum walk down through Mala Strana before going under Charles Bridge, on the right is a glass shop, Artel, all things crystal couture are available here. (I bought a beautiful water carafe that I just love on my bed side table, and many pairs of earrings). Then go under the bridge and just to the left is a little shop called Vanda and Valerie, tucked into the wall of the bridge selling the most amazing hand painted mugs, (yes, I bought some!), earrings and other nick nacks, definitely worth taking a look before going to look at the Lennon Wall – the wall’s owners, the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, allow the graffiti, song lyrics and messages of peace to remain there. Occasionally it gets painted over then it all starts again. On the anniversary of John Lennon’s death there is a candle light vigil.
Come back down from the Lennon Wall and continue along the path through Kampa Park on the west side of the Vltava River. The Giant Bronze Babies are near the Kampa Museum, these sculptures of crawling babies all have weird smushed in faces. More of these babies can be seen crawling up the TV tower.
The Kampa Museum houses the sculpture garden, and many more fascinating art works on display inside. Looking out of the window to the river you can see the Yellow Penguins, by the Cracking Art Group, made from recycled plastic bottles taken from landfill sites. The penguins are marching in protest of what is happening to their Antarctic home due to global warming and environmental destruction.
Sitting out on the river at one of the breakwaters is a giant timber chair, made by Magdalena Jetolova called the Vltava Chair, the chair was washed away in one of the great floods and found 50kms down river.
Back across the river in Husova Street, between the Old Town Square and Charles Bridge if you look up you will be shocked to see a man dangling by one hand from a piece of wood jutting out from the roof, at first everyone gasps – is a suicide attempt? No, it’s another of David Cerny’s statues. This one is Sigmund Freud hinting at the powerlessness and hopelessness of man in the modern world, but not willing to let go.
Behind shops near Narodni Trida Metro Station sits an enormous rotating head of Franz Kafka by David Cerny. It has 42 rotating layers and when they all align it forms the Czech writer’s face. There is a cocktail bar nearby, the perfect venue to watch this metamorphosis take place.
Back near Wencelas Square, inside an art nouveau arcade called Lucena Pasaz, just up Stepansha Street opposite the Grand Hotel Europa, there is another David Cerney sculpture, this time possibly mocking the current Czech President, Vavlav Klaus, a frequent subject of Cerney’s derision. Here as King Wencelas sitting in the same pose as King Wencelas on the statue outside in Wencelas Square, astride his horse, but he doesn’t seem to realise the horse is dead, upside down and unceremoniously suspended from the ceiling.
David Cerny never comments publicly on his works – so over to you – make of it what you will….
Itinerary for Trip Over to Prague and Berlin
Flights from Sydney to Prague via Dubai with Qantas/Emirates
Stayed for 2 weeks in a beautiful apartment near the Dancing House, found on Airbnb.
Had a driver from On Day Trip pick us up in Prague and drive us to Berlin
Stayed for 2 weeks in Berlin in one of the magnificent penthouse apartments at Gorki Apartments near Rosenthaler Platz U-Bahn Station.
Return flights with Lufthansa from Berlin to Frankfurt, then Qantas/Emirates from Frankfurt to Sydney via Dubai.
The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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Everything you think there can`t possibly be any more steps, there`s just a few more, then maybe just a few more!! But the view out over the Cinque Terre coast is worth it.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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The Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Vernazza, with it`s octagonal bell tower has been sitting in the main square in Vernazza since the 13th century. I guess it`s OK to leave your guitar and guitar case out on the rocks by itself before the crowds arrive!!
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Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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The streets of Venice getting a good wash in the rain, the fist pic is one of the main paths to cut through, I love the fact that people have been walking down here for hundreds of years, and I`m one of them!! The second pic is the Rialto Market building, the market has been trading here since 1097, the current building dates back to the 1500s and still trades every morning, then gets scrubbed down in the afternoon ready for the next day.
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In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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Most areas in Italy have a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi somewhere and Monterosso al Mare is no exception, here in Piazza Garibaldi surrounded by cafes and restaurants.
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The Fountain of Dialogue in Piazza Garibaldi in La Spezia, I`m not too sure how I feel about it, it`s different from all angles, some better, some not so nice!! It was designed for people to sit all around it next to the water and talk, I wanted to get a picture with less people......fortunately I walked through the square many times every day.
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Gondolas on the Grand Canal in Venice near Rialto Bridge, and on one of many smaller canals, giving way to a delivery boat to go under a small bridge. Love the way the Gondoliers kick off the wall to stop the boat hitting the wall and to steer it off in the right direction.
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Sea creatures carved into the rocks in a wall in Vernazza, Cinque Terre. Each of the villages has a quirky art work somewhere!!
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As the ferry from La Spezia pulled into Vernazza, on the Cinque Terre coast, we were all mesmerised by the efficiency of this helicopter that seemed to be bringing building supplies in from just over this hill, where the closest road is. The guys who unhooked the load were so fast the chopper seemed to not even slow down as it spun around to go back for the next load, then the same at the pick up location, it just swooped in and they were ready to hook the next load on and it flew on, a well rehearsed routine!!
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Bronze sculpture of Perseus proudly displaying Medusa`s head that he had just lopped off, by Benvenuto Cellini, the sculpture was finished in 1554. It stands in Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria, in the centre of Florence.
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Walk through this little tunnel under the rock from one rocky beach to another one!! Luckily I`m not the sit on a beach type, very rocky coastline around Vernazza in Cinque Terre, Italy.
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The crystal clear waters at Manarola in the Cinque Terre National Park.
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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This fruit and vegetable shop really stood out in Riomaggiore!! Most of the rest of the village is restaurants or shops selling tourist trash, tea towels and socks all printed with Riomaggiore or Cinque Terre. I feel the whole area has lost it`s charm and authenticity to over tourism.
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The Uffizi Gallery in Florence, this is taken from Piazzale degli Uffizi looking towards the river, the top floor is the Vasari passage that goes from here across Ponte Vecchio to Pitti Palace, so the Medici didn`t have to walk amongst the peasants, or deal with smell from the butchers shops on their way between the office and the Palace.
When I was here in 2013, Vasari Passage had never been open to the public, then I was very excited to hear that had changed, then I knew they closed it again to do some maintenance work and should have been open in time for my recent visit. They must have heard I was coming back and decided to delay the re-opening 🥺 Oh well, maybe next time....
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The streets of Siena, some are flat, or flattish, they undulate with the terrain they were built on centuries ago, some are steep slopes, some are steep steps, some are a combination three, but all are interesting...
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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The Chapel of St Catherine Flagellants behind the monument to the people of Corniglia who died in the Facist/anti-Facist uprisings in 1926. Up the stairs at the side of the Chapel there is a platform with a view out over the sea.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The beautiful Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, built between 1600 and 1603, to move prisoners from Palazzo Ducale to the prisons across the canal. The closed bridge is one of the most famous and photographed in Venice. You can still walk across it today when visiting the Doge`s Palace.
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Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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Manarola, the next village coming into view as my ferry from La Spezia Heads north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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The statue standing in Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence, is rather unfortunately named The Rape of the Sabine Women, or The Abduction of the Sabine Women, both equally bad, depicting the way women were treated in Roman times. Made from marble in the 1500s by Giambologna for Cosimo Medici.
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Castello San Giorgio in La Spezia has been protecting this part of Italy since 1262, it now houses a museum and a fabulous view from the top. There is a lift up from the town area, then cross the road and jump on to the funicular to get up to the castle, or if you`re feel fit, there are steps, many, many of them!! La Spezia is just south of Cinque Terre, therefore an excellent base to see this area from.
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Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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Inside Siena Duomo, the black and white marble soaring up to the ceiling, I can`t imagine how they built this way back in the 1200s. You can go up to the upper level and look down into the Cathedral from the little windows in the top right of my photo.
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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One of the loveliest medieval Italian cities, exploring centuries of tradition. The people are all so nice, and all helped by the beautiful boutique hotel I stayed in @relaisdegliangeli my beautiful home for not long enough 🥺 I will have to go back one day.
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Siena is one of the lovliest medieval Italian cities, this is the town hall, Palazzo Pubblico with it`s 14th century tower, Torre del Mangia sitting on the edge of the main square Piazza del Campo. I recently spent 3 nights in Siena, and really wish I had stayed a bit longer. I`m sure I`ll go back one day to continue exploring this historic Tuscan city.
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#siena #sienaitaly #palazzopubblico #torredelmangia #piazzadelcampo #medievalitaliancity #historicitaly #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #italytravel #italytrip #italy #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives
Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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#riomaggioretunnel #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorevillage #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #artinpublicplaces #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #italytrip #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travellerau
Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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#vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #travelbyboat #outonthewater #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme
Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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#manarola #manarola5terre #madeinitaly #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #outonthewater #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly
The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #cinqueterre #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #belltower
Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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#riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorevillage #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #outonthewater #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #travelinitaly #neverstopexporing #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind
Corniglia is the only one of the villages along the Cinque Terre coastline you can get to by road, which must be an enormous help for the people who live there.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #viewfromthetop #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveladdict
The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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#vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #castellodeidoria #castellodeidoriavernazza #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicitaly #lookouttower #cityfortifications
Looking over Piazza dei Miracoli at Pisa Duomo, from the upper level of the Baptistery, with the Leaning Tower peaking out behind it. The Cathedral was completed in 1092!! Then it took a further 300 years to complete the bell tower, that became more famous because of it`s lean.
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#pisaduomo #pisaitaly #pisatrip #pisaduomopiazzadeimiracoli #pisa #pisatower #leaningtowerofpisa #torredelpendente #piazzadeimiracoli #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #italytrip #madeinitaly #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine 🤣!!
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#veniceintherain #venice #veniceitaly #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #piazzasanmarco #piazzasanmarcovenice #venezia #torredellorologia #basilicadisanmarco #waterworld #traveltheworldworldwithme #italytrip #italytravel #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveladdict #neverstopexploring
After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiore #riomaggiorecinqueterre #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravelingisfun #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #mosaicart #mosaicartwork #artinpublicplaces
One last quick look at Riomaggiore, behind me about 400 people were pouring off boats to take over Riomaggiore, after this photo I went straight to the station to get out of there. All the shops full of tea towels, socks and touristy junk were ready for them......I wanted out.....
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#riomaggiore #riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggioreharbour #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italianadventure #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #boatsboatsboats
In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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#palazzopubblico #palazzopubblicodisiena #piazzadelcamposiena #medievalitaliancity #medievalitaly #gothicitaly #italianarchitecture #siena #sienaitaly #italytrip #italianhistory #italytravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #solotrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
The bell tower, Torre Campanaria, in Manarola in Cinque Terre National Park.
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#torrecampanaria #torrecampanariamanarola #manarola #manarola5terre #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling
Like most Italian cities, Siena has many churches. This is Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, still going strong after opening it`s doors in 1226!!!
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#siena #sienatrip #sienahistory #sienaitaly #sienatravel #sienaitalia #basilicacaterinianadisandomenico #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #neverstopexporing #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #medievalitaliancity #historicitaly #madeinitaly
There she is....quite amazing really, just leaning there for over 1000 years, next to Pisa Duomo. The tower is actually the bell tower for the Cathedral. I love the way these beautiful buildings are surrounded by lawns that you are not allowed to walk on. This keeps everyone at a distance so everyone can see, not just the people leaning on the monument.
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#leaningtowerofpisa #leaningtower #fieldofmiracles #pisa #pisaitaly #pisaduomo #pisaduomopiazzadeimiracoli #piazzadelmiracoli #pisatrip #italytrip #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory
