Cruising the Bosphorus
Trip Over to Istanbul
The Bosphorus is the magnificent body of water that separates Europe from Asia, cutting straight through Istanbul, the only city in the world to span two continents. Giving access from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea, it has a constant stream of cargo ships passing through, with the ferries that cross from the European side to the Asian side dancing between them as if it was all choreographed.
There are a few tour operators running cruises, so the best idea is to walk down to Eminonu just off the Galata Bridge and have a look at the timetables to see which one suits you. The long cruise leaves Eminonu at around 10.30am, passing by all the Istanbul landmarks, palaces and the old Ottoman Yali summer houses perched on the edge of the Bosphorus, going all the way up to Anadolu Kavagi near the Black Sea, then returning getting you back to Eminonu at about 4.30pm. Get to the wharf in plenty of time to get your ticket, then make sure you get the seat you want. My favourite spot on cruises is always outside, undercover (if possible) at the back.
As the ferry pulls away from the wharf you get a great view of Galata Bridge – traffic, fishermen and pedestrians on the top level, many fish restaurants on the lower level, and ferries passing under the middle to make their way up the Golden Horn. From the ferry you can see all the Mosques on the hill up towards the Grand Bazaar, and just across the road from the Eminonu Ferry stop is the New Mosque, called the ‘New Mosque’ because it is – built in the second half of the 17th century – the others were built much earlier! The Suleymaniye Mosque was finished in 1557, the Rustem Pasha Mosque finished around 1563, the Blue Mosque around 1616, so the New Mosque really is quite new, opening its doors in 1665.
You also get a different view of Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, then as the ferry turns you pass Karakoy you can still see the Gatata Tower always on the lookout over the city. The Istanbul Modern Art Gallery doesn’t look so impressive from the water, but inside it is quite a different story. They give you a map onboard so you can identify what you are looking at, and all the traffic that uses this magnificent water way is all very interesting from the tiny fishing boats, to the many pilot boats that take the pilots out to guide the giants of the sea safely through the shipping lanes. But I saw no sailing boats, of any size. Maybe it was too early in the season for them – maybe they sail somewhere else…………
Looking at Dolmabahce Palace from the water shows how enormous it is, this is where the Sultans moved to with their Harem after they felt the need for an upgrade from Topkapi Palace. The white and gold fence along the water’s edge goes on forever, with exquisite gates to open when the Sultan’s boat pulls in. Just as impressive to look at from the water as visiting the gardens and inside the Palace. Behind it, the Ritz Carlton Hotel towers up into the sky, we had a few fantastic Sunday brunches there, a very relaxing way to spend a few too many hours!
After passing Dolmabahce Palace, then the Maritime Museum, the next collection of buildings are all either 5-star hotels or part of Istanbul University, which is an interesting area to walk around. Just before you go under the Bosphorus Bridge, opened in 1973, on the European side of the water is the very elegant Ortakoy Mosque. The next bridge spanning the Bosphorus, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, opened in 1988, looks very similar to the Bosphorus Bridge, I guess they thought, “If it works, duplicate it!”
Then you come to the Fort of Europe, also known as Rumelihisari Castle, built in the mid 1400s to monitor use of the Bosphorus and prevent attacks on Constantinople coming from the East. Having completed his fortresses, Mehmed proceeded to levy a toll on ships passing within reach of their cannon. A Venetian vessel ignoring signals to stop was sunk with a single shot from the canon and all the surviving sailors were beheaded, except for the captain, who was impaled and mounted as a human scarecrow as a warning to further sailors that they mean it.
The ferry makes a few stops along the way on either side of the Bosphorus to pick up and set down passengers, then stops at Anadolu Kavagi on the Asian side, where you can get off, walk up the very steep hill through the very pretty village to the ruined medieval castle. There is limited access, (let’s say none), to the castle as they are doing archeaological digs to find out more about its Byzantine origins. From here you can see way out into the Black Sea to where the black smog hangs in the air from all the shipping tankers. The supports were in place for another bridge to cross the Bosphorus, the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge, a slightly different design to the other two bridges, but only very slightly.
After walking back down to the village we still had time for a delicious seafood lunch in one of the restaurants along the water’s edge before boarding the ferry again for the trip back. We chose a restaurant to the far left (as you get off) of the ferry stop, a nice table in the shade, no one wanted that table as they all wanted to sit in full sun – not something I have any desire to do. The waiter was very apologetic that he had no more tables in sun, but for us it was perfect.
Having spent the trip up the Bosphorus taking many photos is was nice on the way back to just look, and of course snap a few pics of the seagulls that fly along with you hoping to be fed a few crumbs by the passengers. Of course we had to take photos of the majestic mansions and some in a terrible state, in need of a lot of care, and there were a few more palaces that were able to sneak into the lens. A fantastic, relaxing day out on the water flitting from Europe to Asia and back again.
Itinerary for Trip Over to Istanbul
Flew from Sydney to Istanbul via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Galata Tower for a month – rented through Istanbul Place Apartments.
The apartment came with 2 transport cards, that we just needed to top up and we had tickets for all trams, funiculars and the metro.
Istanbul Place Apartments arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday.
Manarola, the 2nd village in the Cinque Terre National Park as you head north from La Spezia. The water runs down from the hills, under the village and into the sea.
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The wine growing terraces rising up behind the village of Manarola on the Cinque Terre coat of Italy, see as the ferry moves north towards Corniglia.
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Walking from the northern beach at Monterosso al Mare to the southern beach, on the Cinque Terre coast, there was a market setting up under the arches under the rail line and a few cafes in the square.
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The black and white marble bell tower at Siena Duomo stands at 77mtrs, the bells can be heard all over the town, the oldest of the 6 bells was cast in 1149. You can`t climb the bell tower, thankfully (because I would have!!) But you can go up to the balcony around the Cathedral dome next to it, which I did.....the views over Tuscany are spectacular!
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My first sighting of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!! It does have quite a lean to it!! Built in the 12th century, it leaned immediately, but then leaned more......by 1990 it was leaning 5.5 degrees, it was then stabilised back to just under 4 degrees after under going some remedial work.
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Inside Chiesa San Pietro Corniglia, high up on the hill looking over the Cinque Terre coastline. The church was completed in 1351 and hasn`t missed a beat in nearly 700 years, and still looking magnificent.
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Monterosso al Mare, the Northern most village on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy. I caught the ferry from La Spezia all the way up the coast to Monterosso, it was so good to see all the villages from the ferry, then I caught the train back down visiting each of the villages.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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The main street of Manarola leading down to the water, Manarola is the next village up from Riomaggiore as you north along the Cinque Terre coast.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia as seen from the dome of Siena Duomo, with the beautiful Tuscan countryside rolling out past the Siena city walls.
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The beautiful Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, built between 1600 and 1603, to move prisoners from Palazzo Ducale to the prisons across the canal. The closed bridge is one of the most famous and photographed in Venice. You can still walk across it today when visiting the Doge`s Palace.
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Even the mermaids play music in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre. This artwork was near the tunnel between the train station and the village, lighting the way.
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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The tunnel from the railway station at Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, through to the village to the left and the harbour to the right.
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The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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The Florence Cathedral, Duomo di Firenze, was built between 1296 and 1436, the last 16 years of that time spent building the dome, that can be seen from all around Florence. (There has been a church on this site since 393!) The building is enormous, then add the Baptistry and the bell tower it really is the centre of Florence.
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Walk through this little tunnel under the rock from one rocky beach to another one!! Luckily I`m not the sit on a beach type, very rocky coastline around Vernazza in Cinque Terre, Italy.
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In the courtyard inside Palazzo Pubblico, Siena`s Town Hall. Construction of this medieval Gothic building began in 1297 as the seat of the government. I don`t imagine anything built today will still be standing in 700 years, let alone still be a beautiful functioning building!!
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After arriving at Riomaggiore Station, you then walk through a tunnel from the village to the harbour. The tunnel is lined with mosaics of sea creatures and water scenes. Riomaggiore is just a few minutes by train from La Spezia.
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One of the loveliest medieval Italian cities, exploring centuries of tradition. The people are all so nice, and all helped by the beautiful boutique hotel I stayed in @relaisdegliangeli my beautiful home for not long enough 🥺 I will have to go back one day.
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The Chapel of St Catherine Flagellants behind the monument to the people of Corniglia who died in the Facist/anti-Facist uprisings in 1926. Up the stairs at the side of the Chapel there is a platform with a view out over the sea.
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On another lovely walk out to the Marina in La Spezia Harbour, looking at the mountain range to the east. There is always something to see here, ferries coming and going, sailing boats, and all the bars and restaurants.
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The very detailed front of Siena Duomo, built between 1215 and 1264, in the beautiful medieval Tuscan city of Siena. The Duomo is quite the feature of Siena, both inside and out, you can`t get enough of it. The tour into the upper levels really accentuates how enormous it is. If you`re thinking of a trip over to Italy, Siena is a must.
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The streets of Siena, some are flat, or flattish, they undulate with the terrain they were built on centuries ago, some are steep slopes, some are steep steps, some are a combination three, but all are interesting...
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Inside Siena Duomo, amazing to think it was built over 1000 years ago, and is still standing in original condition. You can pretty much guarantee that there will be nothing built today that will still be standing in 1000 years!!
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The Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Vernazza, with it`s octagonal bell tower has been sitting in the main square in Vernazza since the 13th century. I guess it`s OK to leave your guitar and guitar case out on the rocks by itself before the crowds arrive!!
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This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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Siena`s Torre del Mangia can be seen between buildings all over this magnificent medieval city.
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Ponte Vecchio, crossing River Arno, the top level is the Vasari Passage coming from Uffuzi Gallery. Ponte Vecchio started off as butcher shops, the waste product being thrown into the river, the stench was said to be unbearable. Now mainly jewellery shops, not smelly at all!!!
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When I arrived in Venice is was cold, rainy and very grey, but that didn`t stop me from walking miles exploring this amazing water world. Basilica di San Marco, and Torre dell`Orologio look beautiful no matter what the weather is.
I learned the art of layering up a puffer coat under a trench coat, wearing waterproof shoe covers, a rain hat and carrying an umbrella and pretending everything is just fine 🤣!!
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As the ferry from La Spezia pulled into Vernazza, on the Cinque Terre coast, we were all mesmerised by the efficiency of this helicopter that seemed to be bringing building supplies in from just over this hill, where the closest road is. The guys who unhooked the load were so fast the chopper seemed to not even slow down as it spun around to go back for the next load, then the same at the pick up location, it just swooped in and they were ready to hook the next load on and it flew on, a well rehearsed routine!!
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It was really hard taking photos of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the temptation to line it up straight in the lens is something I struggled with, having it next to a straight building helps!!!
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One last quick look at Riomaggiore, behind me about 400 people were pouring off boats to take over Riomaggiore, after this photo I went straight to the station to get out of there. All the shops full of tea towels, socks and touristy junk were ready for them......I wanted out.....
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Riomaggiore is the southern most of the Cinque Terre villages, closest to my base in La Spezia on the Italian coast. On my first day, I caught the ferry from La Spezia to Montarosso so I could see all the villages from the water, before exploring on land.
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Like most Italian cities, Siena has many churches. This is Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, still going strong after opening it`s doors in 1226!!!
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#siena #sienatrip #sienahistory #sienaitaly #sienatravel #sienaitalia #basilicacaterinianadisandomenico #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #neverstopexporing #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #medievalitaliancity #historicitaly #madeinitaly
The daily seafood market that has been trading in Rialto, Venice for centuries and still very much in demand supplying all the locals, the restaurants and the Airbnbers. They have everything and more, all beautifully fresh and ready to be turned into something fabulous!!
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#seafoodmarket #rialtomarket #rialtomarket_venice #freshseafoodmarket #veniceitaly #venice #venicelife #venicetrip #veniceintherain #italytravel #italytrip #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italyfoodporn #italyiloveyou #traveltheworldwithme #traveltheworldworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmylens #seeeverythingdoeverything
Gondolas on the Grand Canal in Venice near Rialto Bridge, and on one of many smaller canals, giving way to a delivery boat to go under a small bridge. Love the way the Gondoliers kick off the wall to stop the boat hitting the wall and to steer it off in the right direction.
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#venice #grandcanal #goldola #gondolier #outonthecanal #underrialtobridge #canalsinvenice #italy #italytravel #italytrip #veniceitaly #venicecanals #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #waterworld #lifeonthewater #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #venicetrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme
Early morning in Corniglia, shutters are still closed, the garbage is out for collection, in a few hours it will be standing room only!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #stepsstepsandmoresteps #italianadventure
Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
More steps up to the Castlello san Giorgoin La Spezia.....just in case you don`t feel like taking the lift and the funicular!!!! Anyone???
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#solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #neverstopexploring #travelinitaly #traveladdict #laspezia #laspeziaitaly #castellosangiorgio #stairwaytoheaven #manymanystepstoclimb #laspeziacentro #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture #explorelaspezia
The bell tower, Torre Campanaria, in Manarola in Cinque Terre National Park.
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#torrecampanaria #torrecampanariamanarola #manarola #manarola5terre #manarolacinqueterre #manarolaitaly #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling
Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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#riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiorecinqueterre #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #boatsboatsboats #riomaggioreharbour #visitcinqueterre #italianadventure #italytravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme
This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #stepsstepsandmoresteps #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #neverstoptravelling #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring
Inside the Baptistery next to Pisa Duomo in Piazza dei Miracoli, it seems black and white marble was all the go 1000 years ago, one of my favourites now!!
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#pisaitaly #pisafieldofmiracles #pisabaptisteryofstjohn #pisatrip #pisabaptistery #battisterodisangiovanni #pulpit #pisafieldofmiracles #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #blackandwhitemarble #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #italytrip #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
