Cruising the Bosphorus
Trip Over to Istanbul
The Bosphorus is the magnificent body of water that separates Europe from Asia, cutting straight through Istanbul, the only city in the world to span two continents. Giving access from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea, it has a constant stream of cargo ships passing through, with the ferries that cross from the European side to the Asian side dancing between them as if it was all choreographed.
There are a few tour operators running cruises, so the best idea is to walk down to Eminonu just off the Galata Bridge and have a look at the timetables to see which one suits you. The long cruise leaves Eminonu at around 10.30am, passing by all the Istanbul landmarks, palaces and the old Ottoman Yali summer houses perched on the edge of the Bosphorus, going all the way up to Anadolu Kavagi near the Black Sea, then returning getting you back to Eminonu at about 4.30pm. Get to the wharf in plenty of time to get your ticket, then make sure you get the seat you want. My favourite spot on cruises is always outside, undercover (if possible) at the back.
As the ferry pulls away from the wharf you get a great view of Galata Bridge – traffic, fishermen and pedestrians on the top level, many fish restaurants on the lower level, and ferries passing under the middle to make their way up the Golden Horn. From the ferry you can see all the Mosques on the hill up towards the Grand Bazaar, and just across the road from the Eminonu Ferry stop is the New Mosque, called the ‘New Mosque’ because it is – built in the second half of the 17th century – the others were built much earlier! The Suleymaniye Mosque was finished in 1557, the Rustem Pasha Mosque finished around 1563, the Blue Mosque around 1616, so the New Mosque really is quite new, opening its doors in 1665.
You also get a different view of Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, then as the ferry turns you pass Karakoy you can still see the Gatata Tower always on the lookout over the city. The Istanbul Modern Art Gallery doesn’t look so impressive from the water, but inside it is quite a different story. They give you a map onboard so you can identify what you are looking at, and all the traffic that uses this magnificent water way is all very interesting from the tiny fishing boats, to the many pilot boats that take the pilots out to guide the giants of the sea safely through the shipping lanes. But I saw no sailing boats, of any size. Maybe it was too early in the season for them – maybe they sail somewhere else…………
Looking at Dolmabahce Palace from the water shows how enormous it is, this is where the Sultans moved to with their Harem after they felt the need for an upgrade from Topkapi Palace. The white and gold fence along the water’s edge goes on forever, with exquisite gates to open when the Sultan’s boat pulls in. Just as impressive to look at from the water as visiting the gardens and inside the Palace. Behind it, the Ritz Carlton Hotel towers up into the sky, we had a few fantastic Sunday brunches there, a very relaxing way to spend a few too many hours!
After passing Dolmabahce Palace, then the Maritime Museum, the next collection of buildings are all either 5-star hotels or part of Istanbul University, which is an interesting area to walk around. Just before you go under the Bosphorus Bridge, opened in 1973, on the European side of the water is the very elegant Ortakoy Mosque. The next bridge spanning the Bosphorus, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, opened in 1988, looks very similar to the Bosphorus Bridge, I guess they thought, “If it works, duplicate it!”
Then you come to the Fort of Europe, also known as Rumelihisari Castle, built in the mid 1400s to monitor use of the Bosphorus and prevent attacks on Constantinople coming from the East. Having completed his fortresses, Mehmed proceeded to levy a toll on ships passing within reach of their cannon. A Venetian vessel ignoring signals to stop was sunk with a single shot from the canon and all the surviving sailors were beheaded, except for the captain, who was impaled and mounted as a human scarecrow as a warning to further sailors that they mean it.
The ferry makes a few stops along the way on either side of the Bosphorus to pick up and set down passengers, then stops at Anadolu Kavagi on the Asian side, where you can get off, walk up the very steep hill through the very pretty village to the ruined medieval castle. There is limited access, (let’s say none), to the castle as they are doing archeaological digs to find out more about its Byzantine origins. From here you can see way out into the Black Sea to where the black smog hangs in the air from all the shipping tankers. The supports were in place for another bridge to cross the Bosphorus, the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge, a slightly different design to the other two bridges, but only very slightly.
After walking back down to the village we still had time for a delicious seafood lunch in one of the restaurants along the water’s edge before boarding the ferry again for the trip back. We chose a restaurant to the far left (as you get off) of the ferry stop, a nice table in the shade, no one wanted that table as they all wanted to sit in full sun – not something I have any desire to do. The waiter was very apologetic that he had no more tables in sun, but for us it was perfect.
Having spent the trip up the Bosphorus taking many photos is was nice on the way back to just look, and of course snap a few pics of the seagulls that fly along with you hoping to be fed a few crumbs by the passengers. Of course we had to take photos of the majestic mansions and some in a terrible state, in need of a lot of care, and there were a few more palaces that were able to sneak into the lens. A fantastic, relaxing day out on the water flitting from Europe to Asia and back again.
Itinerary for Trip Over to Istanbul
Flew from Sydney to Istanbul via Dubai, with Qantas/Emirates.
Stayed in an apartment near Galata Tower for a month – rented through Istanbul Place Apartments.
The apartment came with 2 transport cards, that we just needed to top up and we had tickets for all trams, funiculars and the metro.
Istanbul Place Apartments arranged for us to be picked up at the airport on arrival, and taken back at the end of our holiday.
More steps to climb!!! Up to the, I`m going to call it the terrace, to look out for the enemy approaching - all clear out on the Gulf of Poets as far as Porto Venere in the distance and the weather beaten Italian flag continues to fly at Lerici Castle.
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This fruit and vegetable shop really stood out in Riomaggiore!! Most of the rest of the village is restaurants or shops selling tourist trash, tea towels and socks all printed with Riomaggiore or Cinque Terre. I feel the whole area has lost it`s charm and authenticity to over tourism.
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After catching the bus from La Spezia to Porto Venere, I walked to the square and saw this ancient entrance to the old city within the castle walls, this is exactly what I was hoping the villages in Cinque Terre would be like. Porto Venere beats all the villages for beauty, fantastic views, history, lovely shops and beautiful food 😍 💖
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What is the most efficient way to get from Venice Marco Polo Airport into Venice?
Alilaguna Water Bus,
@alilaguna_official operate from the airport to several stops around Venice and along the Grand Canal, making it very easy for solo travellers to get yourself and your luggage to your hotel with a minimum of fuss. I stayed the lovely @rialtohotelvenice just near the Rialto Vaporetto stop, so very convenient.
Click to link to my website in the bio to read bout my arrival in this watery wonder world.
#venice #alilaguna #venicewaterbus #airporttransport #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #neverstopexploring #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #italianarchitecture #italianadventure #italytravel #earlyspringinitaly #solotravel #venicelights #veniceitaly #venicewalks #venicelife #venicecanals #venicetrip
An enormous stainless steel sculpture of Captain James Cook in the NSW Art Gallery, just next to the Royal Botanic Gardens. I made a detour to the Art Gallery before heading back into the gardens to continue my walk.
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#captaincook #stainlesssteelsculpture #nswartgallery #nswartgallerysydney #sydneyweekend #sydney #sydneylocal #sydneywalks #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #sydneylife #sydneystyle #explorethecityyoulivein
Sydney` Royal Botanic Gardens starting to come to life at the end of winter. It is still winter here, but we are having hotter weather that we get in peak summer, hopefully this doesn`t mean we are in for a relentlessly hot summer 😳
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As any trip to Italy is full of medieval steps to climb to see fabulous things, Lerici is no different!! These are the steps from the bay up to Lerici Castle, or you can look out for this little unmarked tunnel, walk into the tunnel about 20 metres, and there is a lift up to the base of the castle. From there, there are still plenty of steps to climb up to get to the various levels in the castle, all worth it!!
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Riomaggiore is the southern most village in the Cinque Terre National Park on Italy`s north west coast. Here looking down to the harbour, this was at about 9am, after 10am it gets so crowded as the people flood in, it is almost unbearable.
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A sculpture of a tree on the beach front in San Terenzo, in the Gulf of Poets, near La Spezia in Italy. It was a lovely place to amble around on a cool, cloudy day in early spring.
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The water at Manarola on the Cinque Terre coast is so clear. When I was there it was a bit cool for swimming, but it looked very inviting!!
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San Terenzo Castle has been looking over the town and beach since the 12th century, it has seen some stuff in it`s time!! All around the base of the castle is full of kayaks storage and other small boats waiting for a summer out on the bay.
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San Terenzo castle looking over the deserted beach as the boats and chairs get rolled out ready for beach weather, that actually arrived the day after I was there.
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Corniglia is the middle village in the Cinque Terre National Park, and my favourite!! It has managed to hold on to it`s authenticity and not sell out to become another characterless place full of shops selling rubbish to tourists. Possibly because it is not on the water. I arrived on an early train from La Spezia, and caught the waiting shuttle bus up to the village.
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My walk towards San Terenzo from Lerici continues, past this very rocky section of the bay, towards the next empty beach.....I know this beach would have been a hive of activity the day after I was here, it was much warmer and a beautul sunny day.....but I was off to Pisa that day.
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Chiesa di San Pietro in Porto Venere, high up on the hill, up so many steps, I can`t imagine what the guy with the bicycle is doing!! 😂 swipe to see the ancient interior of the church, and the doors covered in little figures. All looking a bit weather beaten after 900 years.
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Only this tower was left standing after a WWll bomb hit Villa Pastine in Monterosso al Mare, it was recently restored and is along with the broken statue of Il Gigante in my previous post are a feature of the northern end of the beach.
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Vernazza, the 4th of the Cinque Terre villages as I head north on the ferry from La Spezia to Montarossa al Mare. My plan was to catch the ferry all the way up the Cinque Terre coast, then work my way back by train, stopping in at each village.
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A little port hole view from Lerici Castle over the town of Lerici, a great place to pause while I got my breath back ready for the next lot of steps to climb on my quest to reach the top of the castle lookout tower.
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Further up the hill in Porto Venere is Chiesa di San Lorenzo, another medieval church with an amazing view out over the bay, the tall ship out there adds to the ambience.
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Tucked away inside Lerici Castle in the Gulf of Poets on the Italian coast, is the medieval Chapel of Santa Anastasia in the central core of the castle, well protected, so it has remained the same since the 13th century.
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The northern part of Monterosso al Mare, I had a coffee and croissant in a coffee shop on the beach front here before I started exploring. Later in the day a few brave souls were climbing this rock a jumping into the very cool, crystal clear water in early spring. The train station is down here too, where I could buy my Cinque Terre Pass giving me a few days of unlimited train trips, it also includes the bus up the hill in Corniglia.
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Inside the 13th century Santa Margherita d`Antiochia Church in Vernazza.
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Climbing higher and higher up through Lerici Castle, the views were amazing, I`m thinking of moving in!!! Lerici is such a lovely place, just a short bus ride from La Spezia, and no tourist tat anywhere. This is what I was hoping Cinque Terre would be like, but I think Cinque Terre sold out to tourism long ago.
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#lerici #lericicoast #lericicastle #lericiitaly #lericioutdoor #gulfofpoets #gulfofpoetsitaly #boatsboatsboats #boatsonthebay #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #italytrip #madeinitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #oldstonecastle #
The beach club on the bay between Lerici and San Terenzo, in the Gulf of Poets, Italy, just waiting for the sun to come out.
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This is typical of the style of buildings along the waterfront in Lerici, they all have a great view out over the bay.
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#lerici #lericicoast #lericiitaly #italianarchitecture #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmylens #colourfulbuildings #lacebalconies #walkalongthebay #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything
Back down at sea level in Porto Venere, beautiful restaurants and the smell of the sea, with Doria Castle and San Lorenzo Church watching over from high up the hill. It was quite a walk up to the top, but it`s doable, (even for an old chic with a dicky knee!!), you zig-zag slowly rising as you rise higher past San Pietro, past San Lorenzo and up to the castle.
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And even further up the hill in Porto Venere, the old castle walls, the ancient pathways, and more fantastic views out across the bay, and over Chiesa di San Pietro perched high above the sea.
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This is what exploring Corniglia is all about, lots of steps, alleys and arches. The only one of the Cinque Terre villages you can`t get to by sea, this has kept it`s original charm intact 🌞☀️🌞☀️🌞!!
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As my ferry from La Spezia to Monterosso rounded the point Chiesa di San Pietro on above Porto Venere, I knew this was a place I needed to visit. This church has been here looking over the sea since 1198. After seeing the way the villages of Cinque Terre have lost their character to tourism, I imagine Porto Venere is what Cinque Terre used to be like - very few people, absolutely beautiful and so much history, a just a short bus ride from La Spezia.
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The bell tower, Torre Campanaria, in Manarola in Cinque Terre National Park.
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On your walk around the bay from Lerici to San Terenzo, this house was one of many buildings along the way where the window frames and the mouldings above the windows are 3D on the front of the building and on the sides, they are all painted on, even with the shadow!! Very talented artist.
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In the tunnel you walk through to go between the 2 beach front areas of Monterosso, on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy, they have made a few art installations in the walls along the way.
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The village of Manarola, in Cinque Terre National Park, another cluster of coloured homes in a valley leading to the sea, and the grape growing terraces rising up behind them. The local wine industry still thrives as the influx of tourists that crowd into the village don`t get to spill up into the terraces 🥂!!
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The railway station at Monterosso al Mare is right at the beach, don`t be fooled by the lack of crowds on the platform, the train just left going north, the crowds are all behind me waiting to catch the train down to the other Cinque Terre villages, or to La Spezia, where I was staying.
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Taking a short break from posting pics from my recent Trip Over to Italy, back here in Sydney, the Royal Botanic Gardens on the edge of Sydney Harbour, held the Fleurs de Villes exhibition at Calyx, this exhibit was just inside the entrance gates near the Sydney Opera House. One of those perfect winter days 🌞!!
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After walking up to the top of Lerici Castle, the drizzly rain had stopped, so I decided to walk all the way around the bay to San Terenzo, this place will be packed to the rafters, but in early April the only people around were people doing maintenance to get ready for the season.... and me.....
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#santerenzo #santerenzobeach #santerenzochedelgolfoepiubelfiore #santerenzolerici #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #travelinitaly #italytrip #italytravel #earlyspringinitaly #emptybeach #seasidewalk #passagiato
I caught the bus from La Spezia out to Lerici, on the southern side of the Gulf of Poets. So many boats in the bay, and look, another medieval castle for me to climb to the top of!!! Travellers tip:- there is a lift up to the castle 😃!! It`s fairly well hidden, but if you walk around the bay to the base of the castle, you will see a tunnel full of kayaks, just up there is the lift.
In the second photo, out in the distance on the left of the pic, you can see Chiesa di San Pietro out on the point in Porto Venere on the other side of the bay, see my previous 9 posts for Porto Venere photos.
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#lerici #lericicoast #lericicastle #lericiitaly #lericioutdoor #gulfofpoets #gulfofpoetsitaly #boatsboatsboats #boatsonthebay #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #italianadventure #italianhistory #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #medievalitaly #italianhistory #italytravel #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #traveltheworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #seekandyoushallfind
Looking north up the Cinque Terre coast from the breakwall in Riomaggiore. I was there in April this year, before the season kicked off, a lot of the buildings had their shutters closed, as I guess the owners are away until the season starts. There were still crowds of people coming in after about 10am everyday, I`m so pleased I was there early. Over tourism is a huge problem in so many parts of Italy.
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#riomaggioreitaly #riomaggiorevillage #riomaggiorecinqueterreitaly #riomaggiore #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterre #outonthewater #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelingisfun #traveladdict #travelinitaly #neverstopexporing #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind
This sculpture of a broken man in the rocks at the northern end of the beach at Monterosso al Mare, is thecremains of Il Gigante, was damaged when Villa Pastine, behind him took a hit in WWll bombing. The second photo is from one of the art works in the tunnel, showing what he looked like before.
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#monterosso #monterossoalmare #monterossoalmarecinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #ilgigante #ilgigantemonterosso #ilgigantemonterrossoalmare #artinpublicplaces #brokenman #sculptureontherocks #solotravel #solotrip #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #italianhistory #exploringitaly
The curtains on this focacceria are made from real pasta, so clever!!! This is one of the little shops on the path in the ancient city of Porto Venere, inside the castle walls.
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#focacceriaportovenere #portovenere #portovenereitaly #pastacurtains #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #seekandyoushallfind #seeeverythingdoeverything #experiencelifethroughtravel #traveltheworldworldwithme #daytripfromlaspezia #insidethecastlewalls
From the terrace behind the little church in my previous post, looking north from Corniglia towards Montarosso way off in the distance.
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#corniglia #cornigliacinqueterre #corniglia5terre #viewfromthetop #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotravelinitaly #neverstopexploring #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
One of the fountains in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens up towards the NSW Art Gallery. I think someone needs to turn the tap on a bit more, it`s lacking in oomph!!
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#sydney #royalbotanicgardens #fountaininthepark #walkinthepark #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seekandyoushallfind #neverstopexplroring #sydneyweekend #sydneylife #sydneyaustralia #sydneyharbourwalks #sydneystyle #sydneywalks
The Lookout tower of Castello dei Doria, part of the 13th century Genovese fortifications to fend off attacks in the middle ages.
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#vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #castellodeidoria #castellodeidoriavernazza #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #madeinitaly #tripovertoitaly #traveltheworldwithme #historicitaly #lookouttower #cityfortifications
The bell tower above the 13th century Church of Santa Margherita d`Antiochia in Vernazza on the Cinque Terre coast in Italy.
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#cinqueterreitaly #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #lifebythesea #cinqueterre #cinqueterrecoast #solotravelinitaly #solotravel #solotrip #italianhistory #madeinitaly #medievalitaly #italianarchitecture #oldbuildingsmakemehappy #historicbuildingsenrichourlives #historicitaly #belltower
After walking up thousands of steps in Porto Venere exploring ancient castles and churches I had a very late lunch/very early dinner down by the water, this seafood pasta was the most delicious meal I had during my Italian adventure, made me love Porto Venere even more!!
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#portovenere #portovenereitaly #latavernadivenere #seafoodspaghetti #deliciouspasta #fishandchips #deliciousitalianfood #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #travelinitaly #neverstopexporing #neverstoptravelling #italytravel #madeinitaly #traveladdict
Sea creatures carved into the rocks in a wall in Vernazza, Cinque Terre. Each of the villages has a quirky art work somewhere!!
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#carvedrocks #artinpublicplaces #vernazza #vernazzaitaly #vernazzacinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #solotrip #italytravel #italianadventure #madeinitaly #solotrip #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldworldwithme #traveladdict #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling #seetheworldthroughmyeyes
The pond in Sydney`s Royal Botanic Gardens, with glimpses of Sydney Harbour in the background.
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#royalbotanicgardens #sydney #sydneyaustralia #sydneylocal #sydneyinwinter #sydneylife #explorethecityyoulivein #seekandyoushallfind #seetheworldthroughmyeyes #seetheworldthroughmylens #pondinthepark #walkinthepark #sydneyharbour #sydneyharbourwalks
Most areas in Italy have a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi somewhere and Monterosso al Mare is no exception, here in Piazza Garibaldi surrounded by cafes and restaurants.
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#giuseppegaribaldi #piazzagaribaldimonterossoalmare #monterosso #monterossoalmare #monterossoalmarecinqueterre #cinqueterrenationalpark #cinqueterrecoast #cinqueterreitaly #cinqueterre #solotravel #italytrip #madeinitaly #traveladdict #travelinitaly #solotrip #italianhistory #seeeverythingdoeverything #traveltheworldwithme #neverstopexploring #neverstoptravelling
Half way around the bay on my walk from Lerici to San Terenzo, looking over one of the beach clubs, still closed before the season starts, to Lerici Castle and the town of Lerici.
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#santerenzo #santerenzobeach #santerenzolerici #santerenzochedelgolfoepiubelfiore
#lerici #lericicoast #lericicastle #Italiancoast #traveltheworldwithme #solotravel #solotravelinitaly #seekandyoushallfind #beforetheseason
