Trip Over to Malta
Ten Days in Malta: A Solo Traveller’s Love Affair
with History, Harbours and….Buses
I flew into Malta’s Luqa Airport, after a blissfully short hop from London – which, as someone usually flying in from Sydney, felt positively decadent. We flew down part of the Italian coast, with high altitude views of Cinque Terre and La Spezia. Then over Sicily before getting great views of Gozo and over the island of Malta as we descended for landing.
A quick taxi ride later, I arrived at the Grand Harbour Hotel in Valletta, dumped my bags, and had to tear myself away from the gob-smacking views from my room that were even more amazing from the roof top terrace just one floor up – I set off exploring my new surroundings before it got dark, then as Valletta comes alive in the evening there was plenty more exploring to do after dark.
Getting Around Malta: Buses, Steps, and Strategy
Malta is wonderfully easy to get around and felt very safe and comfortable as a solo female traveller. Valletta itself is compact and walkable… with one small caveat: the stairs. Long, uneven, ancient stone stairs. Everywhere. By the end of the trip I was noticeably fitter, whether I wanted to be or not. There were some places to take an alternate, and longer, route to avoid the steps, but sometimes you just have to throw yourself at it.
I bought a 7-day Tallinja card to use for bus transport, that ended up being very good value, there were some days I made six or eight bus trips. The buses are regular, and easy to plan routes on Google Maps. I bought my Tallinja Card from the Information Booth at the main Valletta Bus Station near Triton’s Fountain, then you just find your bus, tap on and get going. The bus station is very organised, all buses leave from their clearly marked stand, then return to just up the road. The ticket is validated on the first use, so I timed it so my 7-day ticket would work for the last seven days. Walking in Valletta for the first few days, then going further afield — a strategy I’d highly recommend.
War Rooms and Grand Masters
My first full afternoon was spent underground at the Lascaris War Rooms, where Allied operations were coordinated during World War II. From there, I emerged into the sunshine and headed to the Grand Master’s Palace on St George’s Square — once home to the Grand Master of the Knights of the Order of St John.
Valletta is made for wandering around aimlessly discovering things, and I happily spent hours drifting through its streets, gardens, and viewpoints.
Tarxien, Marsaxlokk, and a Very Personal Pilgrimage
By my second full day in Malta, I was ready to get out of Valletta, I caught the bus to Tarxien to see the Tarxien Prehistoric Temples, dating from around 3150–2500 BC, very interesting for the history buffs amongst us. Especially interesting for me because I was born in Malta, my father was in the Royal Navy and stationed there at the time. We left when I was only 6 weeks old, but the house we lived in was just near the Tarxien Prehistoric Temples, so I had to get some photos of it. It was fascinating to walk around the streets my parents would have walked on during their very happy three years living in Malta.
Then back to the bus stop and back on to the #81 bus out to Marsaxlokk, on the east coast. A picture-perfect fishing village with a market on the edge of the bay and all the traditional brightly coloured Maltese fishing boats, called Luzzu, bobbing out on the bay.
Royal Residences and Places Best Left Quickly
I then made my way back towards Valletta and went in search of Villa Guardamangia, the house where Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip lived between 1949 and 1951, when he was stationed in Malta with the Royal Navy, (before she became Queen Elizabeth ll). Sitting up at the top of a very steep road, I’m sure it was once beautiful, but now in a sorry state of disrepair. How, or why, it was left to get in that condition amazes me, but apparently it is being restored, (very slowly!), and will eventually be open to the public.
From there I caught my 4th bus for the day to Sliema. I had heard it was a nice place, it isn’t – at least not for me. Mainly new, modern, soulless high-rise buildings. and a modern indoor shopping mall, I’ve got all that at home, I don’t need to see it here. Apparently, there are good restaurants and night clubs here – I will never know! What I saw of it was enough to have me heading back to the bus stop to go back to Valletta, where I had a traditional Rabbit Stew for dinner in one of the many restaurants on Merchants St — a much better decision.
The Three Cities and Forts Galore
Day 4 began with the ferry across The Grand Harbour to the Three Cities, Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla) and Cospicua (Bormla). I could see this area from my hotel room, so very keen to get over there. The ferry leaves from just down the hill from Victoria Gate and goes straight across past all the luxury yachts to Cospicua. Just as I arrived the Little Train was getting ready to go on it’s next tour of the area, so I jumped on and was taken all over the Three Cities to give me a good outline of the whole area.
I then walked out along the Birgu Waterfront to the point to visit Fort St Angelo. A must see for history lovers, built in the 13th Century, and seen off many invaders. The Resident Knight, the Grand Master of the Order of Malta, lives here now, no longer having to fend off attackers – a much quieter role now.
St John’s Co-Cathedral and a Caravaggio Masterpiece
Day 5 – After climbing the massive stairs from The Grand Harbour Hotel up to the centre of Valletta, I visited St John’s Co-Cathedral. Built in the mid 1500s as the church for the Knights of the Order of St John. Although the outside is fairly uneventful, inside tells a completely different story! The ornate decoration in every part of it is breathtaking. It also houses Caravaggio’s famous painting of “The Beheading of St John” (1608), his only signed work.
After that, it was on to the bus to Mtarfa then to Mdina. I only went to Mtarfa because what was once the Royal Naval Hospital where I was born is there. The building is still there, with the sign above the door, I had read it was now a college, but it seemed to be a gigantic unused closed up building. I walked up into Mtarfa village, but there is not much there. You can see Mdina across the valley, just a short bus ride away.
Mdina, the previous capital of Malta, another must visit. Known as the silent city, strolling around inside the city walls was really peaceful, only the occasional clip-clop of horses hooves on the cobbled streets broke the silence.Then just outside the Mdina city walls is the town of Rabat, also good to stroll around and I had a late lunch/early dinner in a pub there.
Gozo, Mosta, and Miracles
Day 6 – Caught the fast ferry from Valletta to Gozo for a day trip. It would have been nice to spend more time in Gozo to really explore it, a day trip really doesn’t do it justice. I went to Victoria, the capital of Goza, then jumped on to the Hop On Hop Off bus, we covered a lot of ground but didn’t have a lot of time to get off and have a really good look knowing I had to be back to Mgarr to catch the ferry back to Valletta. Next time I will plan to spend a few days in Gozo.
Day 7 – to Mosta to visit the Rotunda domed church, (I could see the dome from the Mdina City walls) another amazing building that survived a WWll bomb hitting it, but the bomb didn’t explode – the ‘Miracle of Mosta’. Here you can go up into the dome for the views down into the church, then visit the bomb shelter in the basement, then most importantly, a visit to the cake shop outside is compulsory!!
I was then back on a bus to St Paul’s Bay. The beaches were already full of people in early April, I’m not really a beach person, but it was a nice area to walk around before heading back to Valletta.
Towers, Bastions, and Film Sets
Day 8 took me to another fishing village out on the east coast. Marsaskala, a beautiful bay, I walked for miles around the bay, out to the salt pans then found St Thomas’ Tower, built in the 1600s to defend Malta from yet another invasion from those pesky Ottomans, now housing a very interesting museum.
Still in the mood for more forts, I went back to Valletta and walked out to the point to visit Fort St Elmo and the National War Memorial Museum. I was amazed to see a whole area of derelict terrace houses in Ball’s Bastion, that have been left to rot since the Royal Navy left in the 1960s, their only claim to fame since is they were used as the film set for ‘Midnight Express’. Ball’s Bastion was named for Sir Alexander Ball, the first British Commissioner in Malta in the late 1700s. He was buried there after his death in 1809.
I then continued my walk around the coastline of Valletta. I was trying to find where the Royal Navy Submarine base was, no one seemed to know, but the closest definite/maybe I got was in the bay between Valletta and Manoel Island, now Manoel Island Yacht Marina.
Cannons, Cold Winds, and Farewell
Day 9 started with a visit to the Museum of Archaeology on Republic St, then as I was determined to see the midday Canon Firing at the Saluting Battery, I could see it from the terrace at my hotel about 100mtrs away, but I wanted to see it close up. I went up there at about 11am to stake out my position before the crowds came, it was a cooler windy day so by the time we got to midday, I was freezing, but it was worth it!!
A quick dash back to the hotel to warm up, then on to a bus Manoel Island. I walked across the little bridge on to the island and then walked out to Fort Manoel that I was told was used as the Navy Parade Ground, I also came across a row of derelict terrace houses that were once the homes of Royal Navy Officers. It was quite sad to see everything was overgrown and in ruins. These houses were once used as offices for some government departments for a short time, then their only other use was as a film set….but now just more abandoned naval housing — beautiful, melancholy, and forgotten about…..
Not Nearly Long Enough
Day 10, I was on the 6am ferry from Valletta to Pozzallo in Sicily to continue my solo adventure.
Ten days in Malta was not enough – I’m not even sure that ten weeks would be enough…. that’s the joy of travel — sometimes the best trips are the ones that leave you already planning the next visit.
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To read about the hotels I staying in on my solo adventure to Malta and Sicily, click here.
Itinerary for my Trip Over to Malta
Flew from Sydney to London Heathrow via Singapore, with Qantas on QF1, then QF2 to come home.
Stayed at the Royal Overseas League in St James’s.
Travelled around London using a Visitor Oyster Card.
Flew from London to Malta on British Airways and returned to London from Palermo, Sicily
Caught the ferry from Valletta to Pozzallo in Sicily
Travelled around Sicily by train from Pozzallo to Syracuse, then to Taormina, then to Palermo.
Flew back to London from Palermo on British Airways, spent another few days there before flying back to Sydney.






