The Art of Train Travel in Italy
For the Solo Traveller with Luggage
My plan was to be able to get around Italy on all methods of transport and to my carefully selected hotels, managing my luggage on my own, with a minimum of fuss. The plan went off with only a couple of minimal hitches, but on the grand scale of travel, I could almost say it worked perfectly! Train Travel in Italy is a lovely way to get around.
All my train bookings were made online using Trenitalia or Trainline, both have the same information, I have the Trainline app on my phone. If there is a First Class option, take it, it costs very little more for a nice seat, a bit more space and to be served snacks and drinks. The seats are still very nice in Second Class, but why……? Remember to check the type of ticket you have, most tickets need to be validated online, in the app, or by scanning the barcode on a printed ticket, before you get on the train. The inspectors are ruthless, there was a young couple near me who didn’t validate their tickets it cost them 56 Euros each to correct this error with the inspector, for a 9 Euro ticket!! Saying they didn’t know was not an excuse, she just stood there with her credit card machine saying, “There are signs everywhere, will you be paying with cash or card?” With a silent look that said, ‘or will I call security?’ They paid.
I arrived at Venice Marco Polo Airport, then caught the Alilaguna Water Bus into Venice.
After spending 5 fabulous nights in Venice, I wheeled my suitcase out of the Hotel Rialto and on to the vaporetto, this time from the Rialto stop right outside the hotel, we moved along the Grand Canal and after a couple of stops along the way we arrived at the railway station vaporetto stop, Ferrovia.
It is very easy to get up to the platform, with your back to the canal, head to the right-hand side of the station, there is a ramp there, so luggage is no problem. I checked the board and went and made myself at home on the train for the trip to Florence. The train wasn’t crowded so I was able to put my case in the space between the backs of the seats across the aisle, easy to handle with no lifting, and I could keep an eye on it if the train filled up. Right on time, the train pulled out of the station, we crossed the causeway to the mainland, and in no time, we were hurtling through the countryside.
We arrived in Florence about 45 minutes late, there was a problem just outside Florence with people on the tracks!! All the message that came up on the screen in the carriage said was, “Unauthorised people on the track causing delays.” I was ok, I didn’t have a connecting train to catch, but for others that would have thrown their plans into disarray, but there are generally plenty of trains, so it’s not too much of a problem in the middle of the day. I wouldn’t be keen for that to happen at night.
After my 4 night stay at Hotel Atlantic Palace in Florence, the next stop on the solo Italian adventure was Siena. My original plan was to catch the bus from Florence to Siena, and with that in mind I booked to stay at Relais degli Angeli, a small boutique hotel just near the bus station. Then I read an article about a horror bus trip someone had, (difficult to handle luggage on the bus, a travel-sick child nearby, urrggghh!!) and decided to catch the train! Much easier to get luggage on to a train, but the railway station in Siena is at the bottom of the hill, and the town is at the top – not a problem, there is a series of escalators to get you up to Porto Camollia, the entrance gate to the medieval town. Or catch a taxi!
I spent 3 nights in Siena, then it was time for the adventure to continue, this time out to La Spezia, on the coast, my base for exploring Cinque Terre. This was going to be my first train journey where I had to change trains. I had become very good at flinging my luggage on and off trains, but this time I would have a degree of difficulty thrown into the mix – a time constraint and have to change platforms. I only had a few minutes change over time in Empoli, so there was no time for “unauthorised people” on the track holding things up!
It was all choreographed beautifully – I got off the train in Empoli, checked the board to see which platform I had to go to, hoping it would be the other side of the platform I was on. It was…..and the train was just pulling into the platform!!! I got straight on and settled in like a seasoned professional, and we made our way out to the coast and up to La Spezia. Be aware there are two La Spezia stations, don’t get off at the first one, La Spezia Migliarina, unless that’s near where you are going, of course. La Spezia Centrale is the main station in the town area.
There are many trains from La Spezia to each of the villages in the Cinque Terre National Park, it only takes a few minutes to get from village to village, this can all be done with a Cinque Terre Card, that gives you unlimited access to trains in the National Park area, and to La Spezia, for however many days you buy the card for.
For my train trip back to Venice, after 5 nights in La Spezia staying at Hotel Firenze e Continentale, things did start to get a bit ridiculous!! This train trip is in three sections and I suggest you book them separately!! The first details that came up gave me a 6 minute change in Pisa for the train to Florence – so unless you can do a 100 in a time that can leave Hussein Bolt eating your dust, and when last timed, I don’t! But then again, I don’t know what his time is in an Italian train station with luggage, only in perfect conditions on a track. Me, on the other hand………I might just have it all over him!!
Not willing to risk it, or having the added stress, I booked an earlier train out of La Spezia, so I now have a leisurely 40 minutes to get off one train, find which of the other 15 platforms my next train is going from, and get myself, and my luggage, there.
That all went to hell in a handbasket when I received a received a notification about a week in advance, that the Pisa to Florence train would be running late, this cut into my changeover time in Florence, so I booked an earlier train that could still fit in between the La Spezia to Pisa leg and the Florence to Venice leg. When I get to Florence for the change to Venice, I have 19 minutes, but my understanding is that is doable….
Then a few days later I received a notification that the train from La Spezia to Pisa was going to be running late, this meant I wouldn’t make the Pisa to Florence connection, and therefore miss the Florence to Venice train…….Oh noooooo!!
With the Florence to Venice train being the important one, I booked tickets on an even earlier train leaving La Spezia, and an earlier train leaving Pisa – I think I now had tickets for every train going in that direction that morning, but finally I had the no stress combo of tickets that gave me between 30 and 45 minutes for each transfer, time to buy a coffee in Pisa and some lunch in Florence to eat on the train on the way to Venice. Phew!!
Changing trains in Pisa, I only needed to go one platform over, there was a small lift, where I discovered that you need to hold the button in for it to go, just pressing the button in the usual way does nothing, I was terrified of getting stuck half way, but made it, walked quickly to the next lift and was up on the platform as my next train was just pulling in to the station. The button instructions were just an interpretation thing. The note above the button said, “To operate lift keep pressing” so at first, I was going press, press, press repeatedly. All this did was made the lift shudder. What the sign needed to say was, “To operate lift, press and hold the button in until you get up to the platform or down to the tunnel, then release.”
There was another drama on the way to Venice, where a couple of troublemakers refused to leave the first class seats they hadn’t booked, until security dragged them and their designer bling to the end of the carriage, and handed them over to the police when the train pulled into Bologna.
The train calmly pulled into Venice right on time and I was on the vaporetto and back in the Hotel Rialto for a few more nights on the canal before my Solo Italian Adventure sadly came to an end, until next time…….
To read about the Hotels I stayed in on My Solo Italian Adventure through Venice, Florence, Siena, Pisa, La Spezia and Cinque Terre – all possible on your own, with luggage, and easy to get to from the railway station!
For ideas on places to visit in Florence and Venice, and more to come!!
Itinerary for my Trip Over to Italy
Flew from Sydney to London Heathrow via Singapore, with Qantas on QF1, then QF2 to come home.
Stayed at the Royal Overseas League in St James’s.
Flew from London to Venice on British Airways.
Travelled Venice on Alilaguna Water Bus and Vaporettos.
Travelled from Venice to Florence, to Siena, to La Spezia and back to Venice on Italian Train, booked through Trainline, or TrenItalia.
Flew back to London on British Airways.